The Best Meatloaf of All Time

K-Paul Meatloaf

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My hardcover copy of Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen is dogeared, foodstained and some of the pages are coming out of the binding. It is inscribed, “From Robert and Katy, 1984,” and it is still a “top shelf” cookbook in my kitchen library.

I prize it because the recipes have a zing to them and it contains the best meatloaf recipe of all time. Paul Prudhomme calls it Cajun Meat Loaf and it’s on page 112 after Cajun Prime Rib and followed by Fresh Veal Liver with Mashed Potatoes, Smothered Onions and Bacon. I call it K-Paul Meatloaf.

I am a lover of good meatloaf, and its first cousin, meatballs. I have tried countless such recipes over the years, 13 remain in my database, and probably an equal number in my Cookbook collection; most are good. K-Paul Meatloaf is the best.

What is meatloaf anyway, but ground meat, bread, egg, milk and seasoning. It can be hard and dull or rich, moist and full of flavor, depending on the “other stuff” that goes into the mixing bowl.

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Sirloin Tip

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This is a picture of a sliced sirloin tip with baby mustard greens and sliced radishes. Ummm good.

I wanted to cook the sirloin tip like a steak. I’ve done Hanger steaks, guided by Anthony Bourdain’s Onglet Gascon recipe in his excellent Les Halles Cookbook, and finished them in the oven while making a pan sauce. Those are up to one inch thick at their thickest, and I’ve gone with his times — two minutes a side to brown and 5 minutes in the oven for rare, 8 minutes for medium rare. For this meal, I didn’t bother with a pan sauce. [Anthony Bourdain does this dish with bone marrow, as well as the hanger steak, but I left that out, too.]

My meat, Sirloin Tips from Marin Sun Farms; two hunks of meat about 2 inches at their thickest, tapering to about an inch, were more like small roasts than steaks, weighing a little over a pound, total. I browned them in butter in the cast iron skillet for about 2 minutes a side and finished in a roasting pan in the toaster oven at 400 degrees until the internal temperature reached 130 degrees, about 10 minutes. That was a little on the rare side and chewy, but the flavor was very beefy and good. We ate one and had one, unsliced, leftover, to die for. The leftovers provided two meals, a hash and a steak salad. Not bad, and all for about twelve bucks.

I bought the baby Mustard Greens at the Mariquita Farm stand at the Farmers Market. They were sautéed in olive oil for about 5 minutes while the steak was in the oven and then drizzled with a little vinegar. I bought the red and white radishes at the Eatwell Farm stand, and just sliced them raw for a quick, bright, crunchy complement to the greens. I drizzled the good Stonehouse olive oil over the finished plate to enrich and pull everything together.

Ummm good.

Short Ribs Tale

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Last winter, Niman Ranch had an online special for beef ribs, two packs per order. They weren’t short ribs, individual ribs with meat attached; it was a slab of meat with three ribs going through it, and not a lot of fat. There was one in a package and each package weighed just shy of a pound. I think they called them Beef Back Ribs. In any case, when it came to cooking them, I got busy doing something else, and then I lost the recipe that Niman was kind enough to send with the meat, so I stuck ‘em in the freezer for later.

Later came last week, when in a confluence of coincidence our oldest son and his wife came to visit for a week and the New York Times ran a David Chang recipe for Braised Short Ribs. So I had more than two mouths to feed and the means to feed them. Hooray.

I supplemented the Beef Back Ribs on hand with 3 pounds of actual Short Ribs from Golden Gate Meats and was good to go.
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Substitute and Adapt

Brussels Sprouts for two instead of ten,
A Frittata with Eric’s blue instead of brie.

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When cooking for two, it’s important to adapt, not only to quantities, but also to what you have in your larder.

I’ve always been a guy who insisted on cooking the recipe as written the first time, just to see what it’s like, then make modifications in subsequent cookings. In those days we often ended the week with a refrigerator full of leftovers. Not that that’s a bad thing—cooking for two surely involves the creative use of leftovers—but too many leftovers and some inevitably drift into the past the eat-by-date category and wind up down the disposal.
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Fried Rice II

More from the back of the can…And a Universal recipe.

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You don’t have to be a Spam guy to like this, but if you just can’t get your head around the idea of Spam, use a ham slice instead, and some generous shakes of Tabasco.

But Spam has gone practically healthy on us. Remember when your Spam came in a can with a key and you rolled the top off by inserting the little metal tab in the key slot and rolled up a metal band around the key exposing some pink meat (and the tab broke off and the can was pure Hell to open)? When the can got open, there was this geletenous stuff around the meat, and that wasn’t too appetizing, but you could scrape that off and enjoy the wonderful, salty spamilicious Spam, fried to perfection for your sandwich or casserole or a tastey addition to vegetable soup… even for Mom’s Chop Suey.

Now, there’s a tab on top, just like your can of soup, and the top effortly peels off and there’s a way to squeeze the ends of the can and shake the brick of Spam out onto your cutting board. And there’s no fatty geletenous stuff.

Not only that, but there’s a lot less sodium, fat and cholestoral than in the olden days.
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Back of the Can

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Often, on a can, box or bag, there’s a recipe suggesting how to use the contents of the can, box or bag. These are generally okay recipes, after all, the producer wants to show off their product in the best light.

I’m prone to go that one better, trying to create a recipe for something I’ve eaten, and liked. Both cases are illustrated in this post, and in the previous two posts, for that matter.
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Greengrocer Soup

A swell soup featuring green chilis, potato and chicken.
This is another “made up” soup.

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I bought a container of soup at the big deli and greengrocer on 4th street in Berkeley. This was my lunch on a day of book rep meetings, but it turned out to be darned good and I sought to repeat it at home.

What I could see or taste was:
Green Chilies, the dark green kind with thick flesh
Cubes of potato
Chunks of chicken
Celery
Swiss Chard or spinach.. just a little
Chicken broth

The soup was rich and very brothy and good. In a cup, before stirring, it had probably 2/3 solids with 1/3 broth on top.
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St. Helena Soup

It’s just a short walk from Green Bean Casserole to St Helena Soup.
The key ingredients are the same: Ground Beef, Green Beans, Tomatoes.
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Once upon a time, Carol and I were in St. Helena in the heart of the Napa Valley and needed lunch. This was years ago, shortly after we arrived in California, say 1993. We were walking up and down the street, perusing bookstores—there were two or three at that time, and it may have been the time we bought Madhur Jaffrey’s A Taste of the Far East (published in 1993)—and stopped into a lunch place. I ordered the soup of the day. It was so good, that I shared a bite with Carol. When we got home, we agreed on the ingredients, and C made a recipe. It appeared in the second volume of Eats4One (Eats4One i).
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Green Bean Cassarole

Different strokes for different folks
I’m home alone for a week after my second trip to Ohio in as many months. This time it was to visit with son-from-France and brother-from-Georgia. Wife is staying on for her high school reunion, which explains my home aloneness.

In the days leading up to the trip, we tried to use up all things fresh, but didn’t make it through a pound of green beans. Those, we spread out in a metal pan and froze, au natural. I don’t recommend freezing fresh green beans, except in dire straits… they do retain their color and flavor, but the texture goes all limp.

After airplane delays on my trip home, I arrived late in the night and ate a can of chicken noodle soup. I dreamed of green bean casserole.

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There’s always a pound o’ ground in the freezer and I made Chunky Tomato Base shortly before the trip. We’ve had a half used box of instant mashed potatoes in the cupboard for over a year, but that stuff has no sell-by date. All set.
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Jon’s Fallback Sausage Dip

As served at the Party in the Park, Rising Park, Lancaster, Ohio

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1 pound Hot Jimmy Dean or Bob Evans Sausage
1 Jar (14 oz) medium heat salsa
1 brick Velveeta (no substitute)

Cook sausage in a pot.
Cube Velveeta and throw it in the pot to melt. Add the salsa and stir everything together.
Serve with something crisp to dip.
Serve on a Hot Dog.
Reserve some for an omlet in the morning.

I’m guessing you can get this recipe, or something like it, on the Kraft Velveeta web site, but it’s so much nicer to scratch it down on the back of an envelope over a glass of wine at the kitchen table.

Salty, spicy, tangy.