Prep 96 hours, Cook 1 minute

July 29.09
My brother Tom is in the food biz… he has a company called Food Service University. Among other things, he develops online training programs and content, delivering them on a proprietary learning management system. Thus, he receives a number of food industry publications, both as actual magazines and on-line.

Recently, he sent me a link to a recipe with the subject: “You might find this interesting.”

Recipe: Sake-cured Salmon with Spinach Purée and Yogurt
Chef Daniel Snukal
Restaurant/Operation 3 on Fourth, Santa Monica, Calif.
http://www.3onfourth.com/
Menupart Fish and Seafood
Daypart Lunch,Dinner
Region Asian Fusion

Not being one to resist a challenge, the following Saturday I bought an appropriate piece of salmon at the Farmers Market. I had spinach from my Mariquita Box and was wondering what to do with it. I also have this swell ceramic refrigerator dish in which the salmon (almost) perfectly fit. I rarely use that storage dish, as both the dish and the cover are opaque — can’t see what’s inside — but that’s just fine for this dish.

salmon and salt, sugar, oregano mixture

salmon and salt, sugar, oregano mixture

Continue reading

Padron my stir fry

I’m truly cooking for one for a couple of weeks while Carol is visiting her parents in Ohio. Last night, part of my dinner was two big ears of corn, grilled. I ate a little less than one, and cut the balance off the ears. When I started thinking about lunch today, I started thinking about corn.

July 27.09

Who doesn’t love corn stir fried with onions, tomato and peppers? Well, I do. But I had no peppers. Oh… I have a bag of Pimiento de Padron peppers from my Mariquita Mystery Box. I was lucky to receive The Ladybug Letter about Pimiento de Padron, just as I was writing this.

“Padron is a town in Spain north of Portugal in Galicia on the Atlantic coast. The citizens of Padron would have been among the first Europeans to see and experiment with these new “peppers” that the explorers brought back from overseas. They adopted one particular variety out of all these newly arrived peppers to be their own “Pimiento de Padron.”

“Gallegan cooks learned that the tiny, tender peppers are very flavorful, and rarely have much heat at all to them if they’re picked young enough. Only the older, firmer, heavier, waxier peppers are hot, and they learned to pick them out and set them aside. The cooks learned too that these new peppers could be cooked fast, in just a little more time than it takes to heat up a cast iron skillet. They’d get the pan hot, splash a little olive oil onto it, and when the oil was almost smoking hot, they’d toss on a handful of the tiny peppers. The peppers would hop and sizzle for a few seconds. When the peppers were blistered on one side, the cooks would shake the pan, toss the peppers, and let them blister on the other side. Then a quick sprinkle of sea salt, a deft sweep of the pan with a wooden fork, and the peppers were served, ready to eat, sweet, savory, salty, and piping hot.” [excerpted from The Ladybug Letter, linked above]

That’s how I have enjoyed my Pimiento de Padron. But today I had something different in mind. Use the little, bright green morsels like one would a bell pepper. How bad can it be? Better yet, How good can it be? With Carol gone, I’m totally free to experiment and develop new ways with known ingredients. Continue reading

Lemon Chicken with Agretti

April 25.09

This dish is just so beautiful that I had to write about it. It comes from the stephencooks website, one of the quality food blogs out there. He has been a major source of inspiration for me since I became a lapsed architect.

Recently, Stephen was diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes, so he took some time to get his life together and began anew with recipes to fit his new diet regimen. This is one of the first.

“Skinless boneless chicken breasts — or thighs, if well-trimmed of fat — always work very well for a healthy diet, whether you’re looking to control your blood glucose level or just trying to stay trim. They’re low fat, have zero carbs and are a good source of protein and so they frequently show up in diet regimens or recommendations.

The challenge with boneless breasts is, lets face it: how to make them interesting. The Chinese have a technique, however, called veleting which, with a little planning and a few simple ingredients, turns bland, dry chicken breast meat into a tender, juicy treat with a nice slippery feel in the mouth. I’ve learned this technique from years of cooking from Irene Kuo’s excellent The Key to Chinese Cooking.”

Low fat is not why I cook, but this looked intriguing, so I tried it. I used thighs – at least they have a modicum of flavor, and paired it with agretti, a green vegetable with a bright, lemony taste and succulent texture. Continue reading

Joyce Chen

The wok and the pot.

Back in the day, the late 1960’s/early 70’s, living in Newton, Massachusetts, an urban suburb of Boston, we discovered the Joyce Chen Restaurant in Cambridge. We came in 1968 from Roanoke VA, where nearly everything new and good was “over the mountain” from us. Cambridge was a revelation! Everything was new and different and good, from Design Research to good Chinese food.

three woks

three woks

THE WOK
We went to Joyce Chen on celebratory occasions, often with a like minded group, as the restaurant had big round tables with a lazy susan in the middle. Joyce Chen had a cooking show in WGBH, the Boston PBS station where Julia Child honed her TV chops.

Joyce Chen’s restaurant was on the second floor of a three story wooden building in Cambridge near Central Square, a neighborhood less toney than Harvard Square; a place where new restaurants got their start. Legal Seafood started there at about the same time; another venue celebrating good food that has grown and flourished.

Joyce Chen was content with her single location, but soon enough, she opened a store on the street floor where she introduced a line of Chinese cooking utensils. I’m pretty sure I bought my first wok there, a big, steel 14 1/2-inch wok that over the years has become well seasoned. I still use it.

well seasoned wok

well seasoned wok

Eventually, her name and influence in the restaurant and design world faded. Joyce Chen died in 1994 and her restaurant closed in 1998.

In 1992 my wife and I moved to San Francisco. I moved three months before her, and in barely equipping a temporary bare bones kitchen, bought a small black aluminum calphalon wok shaped pan, only 8 inches in diameter. When Carol arrived with our furnishings and cookware, it got buried the cupboard. Continue reading

Madhur Jaffrey's Noodles with…

Leftover Grilled Flank Steak
Chicken and Prawns
Pork?

One of my favorite Asian cookbooks is A Taste of the Far East by Madhur Jaffrey, the celebrated Indian actress and cookbook author, published in 1993.

The book is one of those big, heavily — and beautifully — illustrated cookbooks and by now is stained and marked from frequent use.

the book

Today, I was faced with the situation of leftover grilled flank steak — not a bad situation to be sure — one I’ve faced many times. A flank steak runs about two pounds or more. Two people — at least these two people — can eat less than half of that for a substantial dinner. The options — steak salad, steak hash, throw it into some kind of soup — are good, but get tiresome after a while.

I remembered the wonderful Madhur Jaffrey dish, Noodles with Chicken and Prawns. It’s comfort food on the spicy side… something I’ve cooked for guests to hearty acclaim. Why not pinch-hit the steak for the chicken and prawns? Continue reading

earthy eats

First Course.
Harbinger of things to come.
Southern Italy brings us soppresatta and Pecorino Romano.
Provencal France lends oil cured black olives.

July 2.09

I’m one of the guys that tests recipes for Cook’s Illustrated – no big deal, anybody can do it, just sign up and they send you recipes – once a month or so, there’s a new recipe to try. They advise that if it’s something that doesn’t appeal to you, just skip it. No pressure.

They also advise:
This recipe is under development and is intended for Friends of Cook’s recipe testers only. We’re glad you love our recipes, but we respectfully ask that you do not post the working recipe online or in any other media until the final recipe has been published in the magazine. And if you do share the final recipe in a public forum, please remember to give us credit. Thank you.

This recipe – Spaghetti with Pecorino Romano and Black Pepper (Cacio e Pepe) – appealed to me, big time. I decided to pair it with a Mark Bittman recipe from the NY Times – Little Artichokes, Provençal Style. That dinner was just so earthy and fabulous I had to photograph it and tell the world on my blog. Continue reading

Greens Attached

Many vegetables at the Farmers Market — even many supermarkets — come with greens attached. We haven’t discovered a good use for carrot tops; throw those in the compost, or better yet, have your vegetable guy top them for you, then you don’t have to carry them home. But turnip and beet greens are often beautiful, oh so edible and easy to prepare. The thing is, they don’t keep very long; so what to do?

Here’s what I do.

First, the turnips and turnip greens

04_turnips-greens06_turnip-greens-cook08_turnips-greens-lunch

Cut and wash the greens, cut up a couple of turnips. These are the little Tokyo turnips, you don’t even have to peel them.

Heat some olive oil over medium heat in a saute pan, add the turnips and greens… add a splash of water and cover. After a couple of minutes, give the greens a stir and season with salt and pepper. Cover and continue cooking for about 5 minutes total.

Uncover, splash with your choice of vinegar. Serve. That’s lunch — or at least the first course.

Now, for the beet greens. This will sound a lot like the turnips.

11_beets-greens113_beet-greens14_beet-greens-chop15_beet-greens-cook

Thoroughly wash the greens. Put; them in a big bowl of water, swoosh them around, take the greens out one by one, leaving any dirt behind. Put them in a strainer and rinse again with cold water.

Dice the stems and roughly chop the greens.

Heat some olive oil over medium heat in a saute pan, add the stems and cook for about a minute. Add the greens.. add a splash of water and cover. After a couple of minutes, give the greens a stir and season with salt and pepper. Cover and continue cooking for about 5 minutes total.

Uncover, splash with your choice of vinegar and taste to see if they’re tender.

Now, you can eat them if you’re hungry, or put them in a jar to store in the refrigerator until you need a side dish.

16_beet-greens-later

English Peas and…

grilled things…
and pasta.

english-peas

It’s the height of the season for English peas. I get my peas from the Iacopi stand at the Ferry Plaza Farmers and find them hard to resist, though I limit myself to a bag about every two weeks. A small bag of the Iacopi peas produces about two cups of shelled peas.

I love the concept and the look of English peas. I even enjoy the shelling. But often, I just don’t know what to do with them. One of my favorites is creamed potatoes and peas. Peas and noodles are good, as well. I don’t like to just cook the peas as a vegetable… it reminds me of grabbing a bag of frozen peas and cooking them as a last minute vegetable addition to a meal. Not that there’s anything wrong with that; it’s just so… ordinary. It seems to me that the cost and effort it takes for fresh English peas demand more than that.

Last night I had a lovely piece of swordfish and was thinking about doing it on the grill. What to go with? During the evening news, I sat on the couch and shelled my peas. How to prepare?

red-spring-onion

I had a couple of spring onions and a larger red spring onion. Those sweet things are good with peas, and hey… I could grill the onions with the fish. I was on to something. When I went to get some noodles out of the cupboard, I saw a box of Piccolini – tiny farfalle pasta, a new product from Barilla – “cooks in only seven minutes.” Interesting. The fish will cook in seven minutes, the onions will take about seven minutes on the grill and the peas will cook in four or five minutes. I had a plan.

barilla-piccolini

I lit the grill, rinsed, dried and seasoned the swordfish with salt and pepper. The peas were shelled, I had about 2 cups, so I measured two cups of pasta. I trimmed the onions, cut each in half and, in a shallow bowl, tossed them with olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. I put on a pot of water for the pasta and peas and preheated the countertop oven to 175°F.

When the grill was ready, on went the onions and the swordfish. Seven minutes later the onions were soft with a bit of crunch and mildly charred. I chopped those and put the fish in the oven to keep warm.

Just before the pasta went into the pot, I generously salted the water, threw in the pasta and set the timer for 7 minutes. A bit after the timer read 5 minutes, I threw the peas into the pot.

When the dinger dinged, I drained the pasta and peas, tossed a couple pats of butter and a gurgle of good olive oil into the hot empty pot, poured in the peas, onions and pasta and tossed.

pasta-peas

That was dinner, and oh so fine. The fish was fresh and succulent, the peas, onions and pasta were the perfect counterpoint. Yum.

I sometimes wonder; is it worth lighting the grill and letting it warm up for 15 minutes to use it for only 7 minutes? The answer is an emphatic YES. And that’s why I retired my trusty Weber charcoal grill and got the swell Weber Q gas grille.

Postscript:
The leftover pasta with peas and onions made a great lunch, heated with a can of tomato soup.

soup-w-pasta-peas

Sunday Breakfast

Carol and I religiously eat dinner together at the dining room table. As for other meals, it’s catch as catch can – we each prepare what we want when we want it and eat at the kitchen table. She’s a sandwich person, I’m not; I tend toward soup or anything made in a skillet.

Sunday morning, I had a hankering for eggs poached in some kind of tomato sauce. That’s a good start. Although I have various homemade tomato sauces in the freezer, none were ready to go.

I did have a can of Progresso Vegetable Classics Tomato Basil Soup in the drawer. That’s pretty good for use as tomato sauce, thick and tomatoey.

I got out some celery to chop into the soup, but with the refrigerator door open, spied some excess fava beans that I had shelled and blanched for a lamb stew. Even better.

I got out the eggs and put two in a bowl of hot tap water. That will warm them up a bit… it doesn’t seem right to put cold eggs into hot sauce.

favas in one bowl, shells in another

favas in one bowl, shells in another

Put a small skillet on the stove over medium high heat, and when it was pretty hot, covered the bottom with olive oil, added the favas and cooked a bit, tossed and cooked a bit more. Continue reading

Tomato Sausage Bake

Last August, I wrote a piece called Cooking from the TV which compared the TV version of a recipe to the book version – and the perils thereof. The subject was Tomato and Sausage Bake from the Food Network show, JAMIE AT HOME by Jamie Oliver.

This week I had some heirloom tomatoes from Bruins Farms market stand (greenhouse tomatoes to be sure), some thick bacon, and a fine coil of sausage from The Fatted Calf. What a perfect circumstance to revisit that recipe.

Starting ingredients

tomato-sausage-bake

Clockwise from the tomatoes:
Tomatoes – three kinds of heirlooms… you can see some rosemary in the pan already.
Focaccia — goes onto the serving plate to capture the juices
New potatoes – not part of the original recipe, but what the hell, they can roast right along with the rest.
Unpeeled cloves of garlic just below the potatoes.
Bacon – this has already been rendered in the roasting pan for about five minutes.
Thyme
Basque sausage from The Fatted Calf

Assembled in the roasting pan

tomato-sausage-bake-1

First, I put the roasting pan in a 375 oven for five minutes or so to render the bacon. Drain the bacon on paper towels. Put the tomatoes in until the skins blistered and I could pull off most of the skins with tongs.
Out of the oven, I slid the bacon under the tomatoes and added the potatoes and sausages. Back in the Countertop Convection Oven on fan bake for 30 minutes.

tomato-sausage-bake-2

Out of the oven and ready to serve over the focaccia. Drizzle with your good olive oil and you are set for a flavorful and comfortable dinner. Yum.