Chili: A New Year's Meditation

Cubanelle_Peppers
Base Recipe:
For 6 Servings plus leftovers;
(items in parentheses are optional):

(2 lbs. meat)
1 lb. onions
1 to 6 cloves garlic
3 Tablespoons fat
(1 lb. vegetables)
(1 lb. dry beans)
3 to 6 Tablespoons chili powder
(1 to 2 Tablespoons standard spices)
(1 to 2 teaspoons aromatic spices)
(thickener)
2 quarts liquid
(1 to 3 Tablespoons acid)

(starch substrate)
(your favorite condiments)

–Soak beans overnight in plenty of water;

–In a pot big enough to hold everything and then simmer for hours, brown the meat in 2 Tbsp. fat;

–Fry the chili powder and spices (and flour if used as thickener) with the browned meat for about 30 seconds, then set meat/spices aside;

–Add remaining 1 Tbsp. fat to pot and saute the onions over medium heat, scraping the meat/spice fond from the bottom and sides of the pot, until the onions achieve the desired shade of brown;

–Add chopped garlic and any vegetables to sweat until heated through;

–QUICK CHILI: Add soaked beans and liquid and simmer until the beans are cooked (1 to 2 hours);

–FULL CHILI: Add liquid, simmer 2 hours to soften the meat, add soaked beans and continue simmering until beans are done (1 to 2 hours);

–Serve over your favorite starch substrate with your favorite condiments

——–
NOTES:

For many years, on New Year’s Day, following the lead of my Father in some ways but heading in my own direction too, I’ve cooked chili. Lots of chili. I’ve tried many recommended recipes, but over time I’ve figured out that the very best way to do it is to find THE BEST ingredients that could go into a chili, and then create a new recipe around that. This year, in 2010, I made chili verde because we grew tomatillos in our garden and had frozen some at the end of the season; and I made a dark chili using beef heart and home grown beans. Both were outstanding, especially with a splash of Navarro verjus just before serving (see “ACID” below).

Let’s face it, more than almost any other meal, “chili” as a recipe is much more of a concept than a specific dish. Any recipe that ostensibly originates as a one pot dish from the Hispanic Southwest US (chili con carne = meat and pepper stew), yet has famous versions in Cincinnati (without chili powder!), New York, and Los Angeles, is inherently mutable.

That said, it’s still got a specific personality: a stew made in one pot that has meat and/or beans in it, and it should feature the namesake ingredient — Capsicum annuum — in one, several, or all of its glorified forms (sorry Cinci). And that’s pretty simple in concept: fry some meat, add spices, add onions and veg, add stock and beans, let bubble, and you’re done. It being that simple, there are millions of variations, all of them inevitably labeled “The Best…” or “The Ultimate…” or even “Traditional/Original/Authentic…”
Continue reading

carrots x 3 + peas + meat

good enough to eat.
I made this dinner back in fresh English pea season, but then got involved with going to Kyiv and so on. Here I am today ready to publish because the colors are so fresh and beautiful.

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Here are the peas and carrots on the plate surrounding a Fatted Calf Duck Crepinette with Figs and Walnuts.

g_peas
The peas shelled and ready to go. I hold the big bowl in my lap on the couch with the measuring cup in the bowl. As I shell the peas, they go in the cup, the shells in the bowl. Very tidy.

g_carrots

The carrots are from the Mariquita Farm Mystery Box. They often have multicolored carrots. They all taste pretty much like carrots.

g_carrots_cubed

I figured if I cut the carrots about the same size as the peas, they would cook in about the same time. I don’t mind if my carrots are on the crunchy side, but I don’t want my peas on the crunchy side.

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Dinner is cooking. That’s not too exciting.

g_dinner_served

The eating is good.

Meatloaf fit for a foodie queen

Love meatloaf. Love meatballs. Since I love them so much, I’m very discerning about the cooking and eating of them. I have my favorites. For meatloaf, it is K-Paul’s Cajun Meatloaf — dubbed the Best Meatloaf of all Time by me back in ought-six — but I’ve been making it since I got his cookbook in 1984. For meatballs, the Polly Dutton meatballs that I learned to make from Polly as an Ensign in the Navy, living in Coronado. That said, I’m always trying new stuff. If the recipe looks good, I’ll give it a shot in hopes that it can topple K-Paul or Polly.

m_detail_meatloaf This meatloaf was published in the New York Times Magazine in July, 2009 and called Fancy Meatloaf for Nora Ephron. It looked good enough to make and Sam Sifton’s story made it even more intriguing. I belatedly got around to making it recently. I’ll let Sam Sifton introduce his meatloaf:

“I was invited to cook dinner for Nora Ephron. This is what happens if you hang around New York long enough, writing about food… You end up at ground zero. The invitation was to a potluck. Guests were meant to bring food inspired by Ephron’s career or by the woman herself. It was essentially high-stakes food charades. My draw was meatloaf. Ruh-roh. Ephron is famous for her meatloaf, a version of which is on the menu of Graydon Carter’s new restaurant and clubhouse, the Monkey Bar. And cooking plays no small role in her new film, “Julie & Julia.” Just thinking about cooking for her, I felt sick and wondered if bringing a few bottles of cold Pellegrino or Laurent-Perrier Champagne would do instead. I’ve read widely in the literature. Nora Ephron loves Champagne. But I got down to cooking. I started to grind. What was borne out by my experience I pass along as gospel: Do not make Nora Ephron’s meatloaf for Nora Ephron. This is a sucker’s play and remains true even if you’re cooking for someone’s aunt on a Saturday night in Fort Myers, Fla.: Don’t make a person’s signature recipe for that person, ever. Instead, take it as a starting point. Move the ball along. And practice. A couple of years ago, Ruth Reichl edited a huge cookbook that was built out of the recipe files of Gourmet. In it is a meatloaf recipe that combines beef and veal, pancetta and Parmesan, brightened with lemon zest and white wine. It’s a luxurious feed, and I’d run versions through the oven before deciding to take it on the road.”

I had all the ingredients on hand except the Italian bread and thin sliced pancetta. I was planning to try and recreate rice meatballs served to me at a dacha outside Kyiv, but reading about Sifton’s meatloaf made my mouth water so I usurped the meats. Meatballs next time. The last time I made K-Paul, I mixed the meat with my (sorta) new Kitchen Aid mixer toy. I found it gentle, quick and non-messy, although mixing meat with my hands is fun and sensual in a way. Continue reading

Topchii Ukrainian Borscht

transcribed 24 Nov 2010 in Monroe, Maine by Eric Rector

Our borscht professor, Natalia
Our borscht professor: Natalia Topchii

“Alison and I had the pleasure of hosting Brian and Natalia for Thanksgiving this year, and I took the opportunity to document the Ukrainian Borscht recipe that Natalia taught me in Reno in June. Alison and I have made borscht for as long as we’ve taken cooking seriously — it’s a versatile soup that can be vegetarian or not, chunky or smooth, served hot or cold. It’s basis in root vegetables and storage crops lends itself to the things we grow in our garden and on our land. We normally grow everything but the bay leaves and the peppercorns in this recipe.

Before we met Natalia, she had heard that we liked to cook borscht and she emailed us her recipe to try, which we did. But there was no cabbage in the recipe, and other ingredients were probably lost in the translation, like ‘is paprika the powder of dried Hungarian peppers? or is it a fresh green bell pepper?’ It was still good, of course — it’s hard to go wrong cooking beef and vegetables together into a satisfying soup. But, of course, I’m chasing authenticity.

In that search, I’ve visited the Polish and Ukrainian restaurants on Lower East Side of Manhattan many times — the food is good, filling, and cheap — and had several versions of their borscht. However, after I sent an article in the New York Times profiling the history of one of these restaurants to Natalia (through Brian), she declared: ‘I do not recognize these dishes…this is not Ukraine food.’ Definitively. I know that there is a wide variation in recipes for the same dish across cultures, but I also know that when foreign dishes are adopted by American diners, they necessarily change as well and take a life of their own. bratwurst becomes hot dogs…focaccia becomes pizza, etc. So I was interested in a taste from the source, and Natalia could provide that for me. (See also “Memories Of Borscht” in the New Yorker food issue this November.)

The first time she showed me how to make Ukrainian Borscht was in Reno this June right before the Anniversary Party we threw for Marc and Carol. There were lots of interesting differences in her recipe that I noted, but admittedly I was too focused on the Party to document the recipe appropriately. The next time we saw Natalia and Brian was Thanksgiving week, and I planned for one day to be devoted to Borscht (many other ‘smatch-no’ items were produced as well, but that may be for another post). Following is the result.

Oh, also, the most authentic instruction given by Natalia in the course of teaching me how to make a true Ukrainian Borscht: almost every ingredient is optional and variable. No beef shin? OK, any beef is good, or hamburger will do. Or pork, or lamb (but never chicken). But beef stock is not necessary — you make your stock with your fresh meat. It is much better that way. Beets? That which would seem to make soup borscht? Optional. Potatoes? If you wish, one or three or five. Apple is very good, but not necessary. Carrots can be left out, as can green pepper, or can be used in larger quantity if you wish. Some people don’t like cabbage — that’s OK. But NEVER add celery — we don’t do that. Garlic is good, but never more than one clove in the pot — save the rest to mash and mix with bread. Parsley (that’s what we used because it was still growing in our garden, improbably through many frosts) is OK — dill leaves are much better. So much better that Natalia normally grows dill through the year, outside in the spring and summer, inside in the fall and winter. Which means that borscht is really just a soup with dill. Go for it.”

–Eric

Ingredients:

vegetable oil (peanut oil is preferable)
1 medium onion
1 pound beef shin with bone
3 quarts water
1 teaspoon salt
2 medium carrots
1 large (or two small) beet
1 green bell pepper
3 medium waxy potatoes (like Yukon Gold, Kennebec, or other boiling potatoes)
1 clove garlic, chopped (not minced or pressed)
1 apple, peeled, cored, grated
1 handful of chopped fresh parsley, dill leaves, sorrel leaves, or other green herbs of your choice
1/2 medium green cabbage head
1 can tomatoes (small can paste, regular can sauce)
2 bay leaves
3 black peppercorns
salt and sugar to taste

Continue reading

BRIAN & NATASZA Part 4 Kyiv, The Wedding

Saturday shopping… the Sunday ceremony… the party

Saturday, October 9 KYIV
We’re running low on breakfast junk… tomato juice low, cheese gone, sausage enuf already, tomatoes OK.

Saturday breakfast

Saturday breakfast

So we go off to Coffee Life for WIFI, rolls and coffee, but first to the Radisson to see if I can find a camera chip.
“Any shops in the hotel?”
“No. What do you need?”
“A memory chip for my camera.”
I got my camera out and showed him.
“I can order it to be delivered this afternoon.”
“No, I’ll find one somewhere.”
But it’s pretty amazing that the guy could/would order it to be delivered in a few hours.
So C got on her beloved iPad internet at Coffee Life while I drank my coffee and ate a chocolate eclair. Emails from Eric and Tom. She responded to Eric.
I called Natasza. A red taxi, license 7304 will be outside in 10 minutes. It will be 33 Hgrievnas (a little over $4). Traveling in Kyiv is pretty amazing, as well.

our apartment building

our apartment building

Waiting for the taxi, I took this picture of our apartment building. We live on the second floor near the corner to the right.

The taxi took us to the market near Natasza’s flat where we met B and N. B took me into a mobile phone shop for a memory card. They had, but the shop person – a young woman of maybe 20 with her fingernails chewed completely off – couldn’t make it fit into the adapter.
Across the way was a bigger electronics store, though I couldn’t tell from the cut-out block letters on the door.

esc_electronics_store

Guy had what we needed: two gig for 75UAH. Sold. Girl in phone store: 120UAH for a 512mb chip… guy in Radisson, 267UAH for same. Now I can take enough pictures to break my computer. Continue reading

BRIAN & NATASZA Part 3 Kyiv

arrive… dacha… city day

Wednesday October 6 – Arrive Kyiv

just off the train

just off the train

Mikola and Ella met us at the railway station, commandeered the proper baggage handlers and off we went to the outdoors. The weather was cool and with a bit of breeze, nothing to match the activity swirling around us. We were waiting for two cars — driven by Natasza’s relatives. One would take Brian, Ella and Mikola (MEE ko lie, the Ukrainian version of the Russian Nikolai) to their apartment, the other would take Natasza, Carol and me to our apartment, then take Natasza to her parents’ place. Off we went… it wasn’t far to our apartment at 36/16 Reitars’ka Street.

We were met at our apartment by Nikolai, the check-in manager for bestkievapartments.com. The last email we got said, “Our manager will be wait for you in the apartment, so if you can then call directly to him/her. Number of manger who settle clients is +380672314009. Manager will show you apartment  and explain how use everything. Also manager will give you keys from the flat.”

our apartment bedroom

our apartment bedroom

He also accepted $475 cash ($95 per night, a 5% discount due to an email misunderstanding). He tried to get Carol set up with WIFI for her iPad ($3 per day), but nyet… wouldn’t work.

Natasza asked what we were going to do. “Take showers, kick back and relax a little,” I said.

“How many hours,”she asked, “two?”

“Give us three,” I said.

kicked back in the living room

kicked back in the living room

She said, “OK, a taxi will pick you up at 2:30, take you to my parents.” Continue reading

Canning Tomatoes

“Last tomatoes of the season,” Julia wrote in the October 28th edition of Mariquita Truck Farm newsletter. Pick-up was at the nearby Greens Restaurant at Fort Mason, so I got right on it and ordered.

20 pounds flat of San Marzano
12 pounds flat of Early Girl

Ordering the last tomatoes of the season is not an unusual thing for me. But canning is a departure from my normal process.

t_jars_o_tomatoes

So why did I get into this canning thing?

A few reasons. I like to make tomato sauce when the tomatoes are at the peak of season, and freeze the sauce for winter and spring. This is good; but I have limited freezer capacity, and when I use the sauce I have to plan ahead for thawing.

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Canning is totally new to me. My mother and grandmother canned tomatoes and lots of other vegetables, but I never paid much attention; everybody canned back then. Son Eric and Alison can 75 or more quarts of tomatoes a year. Brian’s (new) wife, Natasza and her mother, Ella can most everything from the garden at their dacha outside Kyiv in Ukraine. We visited recently, and noticed beautiful jars of tomatoes and such stored in nooks and crannies around their flat.

Once I picked up my tomatoes I spent a day researching recipes and buying equipment; jars and even a canning kettle. I dug out our book on home canning and fired off emails to Eric and Alison asking for tips or advice.

When I jump in, I go in all the way. No matter the initial investment in research and equipment, it’s way cheaper than a freezer.

t_equip_run

The weekend was consumed by cooking and partying for Games 3 and 4 of the World Series: SF Giants vs. Texas Rangers, and of course Sunday NFL.

t_practice_jarMonday, I went into tomato canning anxiety — the canning kettle package urged use of the Ball recipes and procedures for canning and preserving. It’s not like home canning is a mystery, but I’ve never done it before, thus, read research and generally go into paralysis by analysis. And I couldn’t start canning and have to finish after the Giants game started at 4:58pm. But Monday wasn’t a total waste. I made a trial quart of peeled Early Girls to see how they fit in the jar. Having experienced that, I made juice with those tomatoes. It tasted pretty good, but that’s a lot of work for tomato juice to drink with breakfast. Continue reading

BRIAN & NATASZA Part 2

L’viv, Ukraine

Monday October 4 – L’VIV

After overnight train, passports, bunks and bags, we felt a little sketchy coming off the train.

early morning state of mind

early morning state of mind

Natasza and her mother, Ella were waiting for us on the platform. Baggage people came to help and Lord knows we needed it; the station is a bit on the crumbly side and there were stairs to negotiate. Outside, we decided on a big taxi for Ella, Carol and me the luggage. Brian and Natasza followed in a second, smaller taxi.

Rumbledebump down rough cobblestone streets, many with trolley tracks poking above the eroded street surface. I was in the front seat and could see that our driver knew the location of the biggest potholes and steered to avoid them. He was also opposed to stopping for red lights when he saw no other traffic around.

We turned off the big street to a smaller street and the driver made a right turn and pulled over mid-block. In the dark I saw only shadows of big buildings with dark windows. The space between curb and building was very wide and haphazardly paved with asphalt, concrete or nothing.

Here’s what it looks like in the daylight:

find this building

find this building

go through this brown door

go through this brown door

through a passageway to this courtyard

through a passageway to this courtyard

walk up these stairs three floors to an oversize wood door covered with varnished strips of white oak and into this room

walk up stairs three floors to an oversize wood door and into this room

The contrast was shocking, and welcome. Continue reading

BRIAN & NATASZA Part 1

San Francisco to Krakow, Poland

Ordered a Limo to the airport. Guy based in Pacific Heights. Got 5 stars on Yelp.
Made eatsforone business cards.
Put Chronicle and NY Times on vacation hold.
Cleaned my desk!
Emptied shredder, took all recycles and compost to bins.
Made Rector Football Picks for weeks 4 and 5.
Got Breathe Right.
Posted “eats goes on the road.”
Printed some Lancaster, Ohio pictures for Carol to take to Kyiv.
Oh… I learned that Kiev is Russian. Kyiv is Ukrainian. Good to know.
Got cash to pay for apartment in Kyiv.
Called AMEX and Visa to say we’d be traveling.
All progress. Brian coming this evening (Wednesday). We’ll eat an “Escape from NY” pizza tonight and fly tomorrow.

k_warsaw_to_krakowOctober 1, Frankfurt Airport
10:30am. It’s gray and overcast. Travel is exciting and educational, full of new sights and sounds and peoples. An experience we’ll talk about for years.

But we haven’t got to that part yet. We’re in gray, wet Frankfurt for 3 hours on our way to Warsaw, Poland where we’ll take a train to Krakow for sightseeing. We got here by racing from mid-afternoon (2pm) through an abbreviated night and landing at 9:30 the next morning — all in 10 measly hours. The torture part involved getting 400 people (or what ever large number a Boeing 747 holds) onto the plane and fitting them in. Long lines at security inspection, I’m pretty sure there were 5 switchbacks, and we’re wearing coats for Krakow where it’s about 50°F and carrying bags. Somewhere in the middle of the line it begins to feel a tad claustrophobic and overheated by all those people breathing dead air.

At security, there are new machines, so remove everything from every pocket plus shoes and belt and hat and coat and put them in plastic baskets, then go stand in this glass enclosure, feet apart, arms over head.

On the plane, the seats are pretty narrow, but legroom isn’t too bad. Carol and I have aisle seats, which seem less confining… Brian has a window seat two rows behind us.

OK, 10 hours in a narrow seat that’s hard to get in and out of is not your birthday wish — but maybe traveling to places you’ve never been before, is. So there’s your torture and your travel.

The United flight attendants were good, breaking the flight into segments with drinks and a meal, more drinks, chocolate, coffee, and finally, breakfast.

Meal: curried chicken with rice, romaine salad and a brownie. Pretty good.
Drinks. I have Scotch and Soda (mud in your eye). That way, I can drink the Scotch on the rocks, and have the soda to sip on for quite a while.
Chocolate, a nice dark bar, with coffee.
Breakfast: Very lame breakfast sandwich of paper thin turkey and white cheese on a roll soggy from thawing. Strawberry Yogurt.

The thing about Frankfurt airport is, it’s really really long and one is made to walk very very far. Walk down steps and across the tarmac to a bus to the terminal. Ahhh, a brief encounter with fresh air. Walk to passport control… walk to security, then through lots of duty free shops and finally to gate A28.

Brian at Gate A28

Brian at Gate A28

Whew… we sat for a minute before it was announced that our flight to Warsaw was changed to gate A42, the last gate in the terminal. How far is that? The gates are in pairs, 27-28, 29-30 and so on. It is about 100 meters between each pair of gates… 2,400 meters to gate A42… a bit over a mile. Far. Continue reading

eats goes on the road

Warsaw Krakow L’viv Kyiv

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For reasons that will become clear, I have the opportunity to hit the road – or rather rails – in Eastern Europe. Never been. Never dreamed of it, but here it comes.

We – that would be Carol, son Brian and I – need to be in Kyiv, Ukraine on October 10th. That’s 10.10.10 for you numerology folks. Brian and I were thinking about the trip a few weeks back, standing by my big National Geographic Atlas in our front hall. Brian has been. He traced a route from Kiev to L’viv, the first capitol of Ukraine, on to Krakow, Poland and described the cities as being beautiful and steeping with history. Good enough for me… I know nothing.

As the time neared and dates were considered, we reversed the trip:

w_Ukraine_map
Fly to Warsaw, which is remarkably easy from San Francisco (remarkably long, as well). Take the train to Krakow, stay a few days; train to L’viv for a couple days and on to Kyiv. Sounds like a plan.

Needless to say, I’ll be eating and drinking and writing and taking pictures, so sometime in late October something good – or at least interesting – will appear on eats. In the meantime, I’m limited to rather pedestrian electronic and communication equipment and will be out of touch, as they say. Although son Brian tells me I can email from Carol’s iPad where we find wifi.

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