Go Do Spaghetti Sauce

[Editor’s Note: Ironically, I was writing this when Eric called his mom to interview her about her handed-down Sugo (The Whole Recipe – Sugo). These sauces are different, but not so much; and both are worth cooking and worth eating… maybe the best two sauces you’ve made.]

I have a “Go To” sauce for spaghetti, been cooking it for years. I got it from Nancy Harmon Jenkins book, The Mediterranean Diet Cookbook. (That’s “diet” as in “cusine, the diet of the Mediterranean culture,” not “diet: to lose weight.”)

MITA’S TUSCAN SUGO
“Mita Antolini, my Tuscan neighbor, uses this sauce to dress pasta or gnocchi di patate, little potato dumplings, that she makes for Sunday lunch.” [See full recipe at the end.]
— Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Uncharacteristically, I never transcribed this recipe into my computer files. After I made it a few times from the book, I knew it and just cooked it. Anyway, this is how I cooked it last Friday — I call it “go do” because I just go and do it, varying it a bit each time.

celery and spring onions

I rough chopped a few spring onions and tossed them into my mini-food processor — the Breville “Control Grip.”
I chopped some celery from the top of a head, leaves and all and threw that in.

Normally, I would put in a carrot, but I had two small pasilla chilis I got at the farmers market. This will make the sauce a bit “Southwestern”-Italian for a change of pace. [NOTE] (These are actually the dark green poblano chilis, often called pasilla chilis in the US.).

the Breville Control Grip: chopper/processor, motor and immersion blender

So, I fine chopped those in the mini-processor and got them going in olive oil in my skillet over a very low flame. These will need to cook for a while – at least 15 minutes – until beyond soft. Ideally, the vegetables will disappear into the sauce.

Added some white wine and cooked that down to nearly dry.

Sliced two Niman Ranch Spicy Italian Sausages in half lengthwise, cleared a space in the center of the skillet and added a little olive oil, fried those, cut side down, until browned.

Tomatoes: Normally, I use a can of San Marzano tomatoes, but I have these pickled tomatoes that I canned last fall. Why not process those — basil and peppercorns and garlic and all — in the mini-processor, since I have it out.

Added the tomato sauce and some dried Italian Seasoning, and slowly cooked that down, seasoning with salt and pepper. That sauce is good.

the sugo cooks

The Pasta
When I don’t make pasta or buy fresh pasta, I like thin spaghetti, its very comforting to me. Scanning the Barilla shelf in the supermarket, I saw Spaghetti Rigati. Hmmm. Its thin, has ridges to hold sauce, and I’ve never tried it… three good reasons to buy. For just me and Carol, I use a third of a pound of pasta for a meal. I cooked that, tossed it with the sauce, and served.

That’s darned good. Yum. (Otherwise, I wouldn’t be writing about it.) I served it with tomato and cucumber salad with fresh mozzarella balls, dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette, and Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant red wine. Yum. Continue reading

The Whole Recipe — Sugo

Sugo alla South Roanoke Apartment Villages Pool

Every family has a few recipes that are ALWAYS served. For us one of those is a spaghetti sauce that was handed down to my mother almost directly from a buonafide Italian grandmother. It was referenced in a very early Eats article on different kinds of tomato sauces, which even has a comment that echos a very important part of this sauce: you add the tomato paste to the onions and garlic in oil and “fry” the paste a bit to caramelize some of the concentrated sugars before adding the wet tomato sauce and plum tomatoes to simmer.

With this communal nature of recipes in mind I thought it would be interesting to learn more about this “handing down” of food knowledge because the process of teaching cooking has always (and continues to be) one of master-and-apprentice. This model is codified in the culinary world where every serious chef has worked their way up from dishwasher to prep to line, but that’s just a reflection of how humans have always learned to cook: watching someone with more skill, and listening to them explain why they are doing it. Since I knew a bit, but not the whole story, about how this family favorite was acquired, I decided to capture the Whole Recipe for anyone who is interested in it, not just the ingredients and preparation.

As you can see in the photo at the top, I made a batch of this over the weekend — a bit for dinner and mostly to freeze for many easy future dinners. I was inspired to make it because I had defrosted our kitchen freezer and found some frozen spare ribs hiding in the drifts of ice in the back, and I was sure they were dried out, but would still be able to flavor a long cooked dish, and pork-on-the-bone is a critical component of this dish, in my opinion. The great thing about using spare ribs in this sauce is that by hour four or five the meat falls off the bone and pretty much melts into the sauce — you don’t really see chunks of meat in your sauce (unless you add it to the end as Carol recommends) — which I’ve learned is one of the characteristics of a classic Italian sugo. Continue reading

Finally, Fresh Pea Soup Defined

Peas loving their own pods with a potato sidekick.

Old subject, new take…
My take on peas and fresh pea soup has been evolving over the years as chronicled on eats…

 

June 2006

Sweet Pea & Green Garlic Soup by Janet Fletcher, SF Chronicle — where chicken (or vegetable) broth makes the soup soupy…

May 2009

English Peas and…
in this case, pasta, inspired by Tom Colicchio’s book, “Think Like a Chef.”

April 2010
Fresh Peas and other fresh things… where I took off from a recipe sent by son Eric:

Fresh Pea Soup
“Here’s what we’ve been serving on our table recently. Recipes from Eric & Alison’s Tilth Table, November 1998 (From the River Cafe Cook Book)”

It is real good, but fairly standard, using chicken broth as the soupy vehicle.

December 2011

carrots x 3 + peas
I made this dinner back in fresh English pea season, but then got involved with going to Kyiv and so on. I finally got around to publishing it because the colors are so fresh and beautiful.

tri-colored carrots

May 2011

Fresh Pea Soup
I’ve been working on the perfect fresh pea soup for some time. After a few tries, I found one from The Washington Post that made some sense to me.

“A surprising amount of flavor can be coaxed from spent pea pods by simmering them in water.”

Why wouldn’t anybody think of that? Continue reading

A New (for us) Farmers Market

How ‘bout a pair…

peas and pods on table

I cannot resist taking this picture — peas and pods — I’ve done it nearly every spring when the peas come in, by my count. This one is different, though, it’s on our newish dining table — another story — and the peas were purchased at the California Street Saturday Farmers Market in Reno.

In the previous edition of eats… (Some Fine Grilled Chicken) I said, “[Pictures next time, I promise.]” Well, this is next time, and here’s a picture.

that car has no plates — another story…

Prime time parking space nestled between the ubiquitous Nevada pick-ups and SUVs. Guy on the left said, “Cute little red car y’got there.” I said, “We like it.”

The big Farmers Market in Reno closest to our house is just south of downtown on California Street. It occupies the edge of the CVS Pharmacy strip center parking lot.

Its a nice market. A double row of stalls stretches on a few hundred feet and finally  and appropriately bumps into The House of Bread — an actual bakery in the shopping center making breads, cakes and pastry (sorry, no french or Italian).

We got a loaf of brown bread — it’s way good toasted — I had them slice it for me.

what color are your tomatoes?

“Mine are all red,” said Carlee in the green shirt, “and I have peaches and cherries, as well.”

Oh my, some nice English peas. I cannot pass those.

This stall is so orderly it doesn’t look like food, so I passed it by.

Passed by this stall with yellow corn, as well. Make an effort, mate.

Here is the white corn we bought… it is so sweet and fresh and chars up nicely on the grill.

We’re on the home stretch.

Flowers are a good way to complete one’s market trip. These are very colorful and seasonal.

And finally, some of the stuff we brought home.

Cherries, sweet onions, tomatoes, peaches, red and white potatoes, bok choi, English peas, red, yellow and green cherry tomatoes. White corn is not pictured. What’s missing from the market? Any other potato varieties; and most of the heirloom vegetables that I’ve grown used to. The artichokes are the HUGE globe variety… similar with the broccoli and cauliflower. But what we got will keep us nicely and happily fed for a week.

But what about those peas? Continue reading

Some Fine Grilled Chicken

Shopping
A new tool
Finding a recipe
Cooking and eating

We went Saturday to the Farmers Market on California Street. It is good; a double row of stalls strung out across a shopping center parking lot. [Pictures next time, I promise.] There are plenty of fruits and vegetables to choose from, but only one meat source: Hole-in-One Ranch with a great selection of grass fed beef, but no other meat varieties.

On the way home, we stopped at Raley’s to scout their meat department. Well, its a supermarket and 99 percent of their meat is precut and wrapped, just like any supermarket. The meat guy did point out that certain chicken was organic. We bought a pack of 4 thighs, not knowing what we would do with them. (I look forward to reporting our success in finding good meat and seafood sources in Reno, but we’re not there yet.)

For the chicken, I hit my “to cook” files on the computer, looking for some kind of grilled chicken. As previously noted, we have a rekindled love affair with our grill, and this has been exaggerated by a housewarming gift from Carol’s brother Mark and Jannie of Keystone Tomato and Big Green Egg fame: a Technique Grill Pan.

Wow. That sucker sits on your grill and on one side imitates the grill and on the other presents a griddle. And it’s non-freakin’-stick!! Swordfish has a good chance of sticking on your grill, right?

Look at that baby, when I went to turn it, it slid across the grill. And look at those vegetables… Squash, ok that grills up nicely, but carrots? Who would put carrots on a grill? These turned out just crunch tender and tasty. And cherry tomatoes? Didn’t burst, didn’t stick. Did delight.

But I digress… back to those chicken thighs. “Chicken with White BBQ MB” looked interesting, and it had the “MB” suffix, meaning Mark Bittman, an even better chance to be interesting. And it was real simple: Grill your chicken, serve with the sauce.

That’s just what I did, substituting bone-in chicken thighs for breasts. Continue reading

Dinner or Tree

Luckily we could enjoy some of each.

I planned a swell, easy but unremarkable dinner: Throw some Niman Ranch Brats on the grill with summer squash we got at the farmers market.

dinner as served

Meanwhile, there’s this tree smack outside our back door. I love trees, but I hate this one; it’s big and unkempt and in my face when I look out or go out. We’re at a moving stage now where almost all boxes are unpacked and we can begin other things on the t’do list… like that tree.

that tree

So I called a tree guy. We swapped calls a couple times and then around 6:30, he said he’d be here in 20 minutes. I had to move the grill and chairs and the dinner moved from the grill to the skillet.

dinner in skillet

Just as the sausages were starting to sizzle, tree guy showed up.
No worries, I’ll just turn it off while he looks and advises.

Rip it out, Bob...

“This poplar doesn’t belong here, he said, “it can grow to 40 feet. The tree behind it will flourish if its gone. If you top it, it will make a huge bush and consume your terrace.”
As Carol often parodies This Old House, I said, “Rip it out, Bob.”
This was no idle advice, he got his chain saw out of the truck and summoned his son to come from nearby to help.


In about 20 minutes, I thanked the tree guy and paid him in cash. He’s a true Nevada cowboy man of action.

Executive Branches Tree Preservation Company, Reno, 775 527 5345

Executive Branches Tree Preservation Company, Reno, 775 527 5345


I finished my sausages and squash, heated some beans white beans and sliced tomatoes in the same skillet and we got on with dinner…

the new view out our back door...
And savored our new view.

Discombobulated

You bet.

There’s a rhythm to shopping, cooking and eating, especially for a guy used to cooking every day. I kept lists of what’s on hand and shopped by myself every Saturday at the farmers market. So I just knew what was going on and what I needed and what I could get ready for dinner as a matter of course.

That’s all changed. Perhaps it will get back to normal, perhaps it won’t. One thing sure; it ain’t there yet. We mostly either eat out or throw something on the grill to this point.

shrimp on the barbie... as they say

all I can eat sushi at the Peppermill Oceana

grilled trout, potatoes and green beans

Of course, being able to walk out and throw something on the grill was one of the attractions drawing us to our new home.

But some kind of routine may be close. All of our kitchen and dining stuff is out of boxes and in cupboards. I shopped at a tiny farmers market nearby last Wednesday, plan to do that again and then go to the bigger one downtown Reno on Saturday.

Meanwhile, we picked up a Edible Reno-Tahoe magazine at Rosie’s Cafe in Tahoe City, where we went to unwind last week. I perused it last night and made a list. We need to get out and about and see what’s happening on the culinary scene.

Garden Shop Nursery
Napa Sonoma Grocery
Cheese Board
Great Basin Coop
Nothing to it Culinary Center
Whole Food Market

outta control tree

We have a tree in our back yard that seriously needs attention. Its totally in our face when we step out onto the terrace. First stop Garden Shop Nursery. Not exactly culinary, but closest to our house on our way to the culinary delights. They couldn’t help with our tree, but knew who could.

The Napa Sonoma Grocery Company. How can one not check out a place with a name like that? Turns out, it has a rather split personality. Wine shop with several hundred bottles to choose from; gourmet canned and jarred foodstuffs; cafe with a full bar. Not exactly groceries, but a nice find. No doubt we’ll be back for lunch or dinner. I bought a bag of seasoned pretzels.

The Cheese Board is on up Arlington Street. In this trip, we are discovering a very nice residential side of Reno with shops interspersed. We have only known the Reno of the gritty downtown casinos and the sprawling suburban developments. Here, in the southwest arc between Virginia Street and I-80 is an area with a small town feeling. We walked into The Cheese Board expecting a cheese shop. Oops. Its a restaurant. Again, its very nice and we might be back for lunch sometime, but we’re not making great headway on the groceries front.

The Great Basin Food Coop is about six blocks away and we know we’ll find good food there. Son Eric gave us a membership here and we’ve visited with Son Brian, but this is our first time with actual bags to take actual groceries home. Some potatoes, cheese, and milk and stuff to make yogurt. I can’t bring myself to buy a tomato anywhere but a farmers market. Great Basin presents a nice shopping environment, but I was not yet in a frame of mind to think about what goes together to make dinner. Discombobulated.

So we drive south to Nothing to it Culinary Center. This funky place is at the very end of a dinky little street off S. Virginia described as “one block north of Whole Food.” Edible Reno-Tahoe says, “This outstanding facility features hands-on and demonstration classes taught by master chefs. You’ll also find a gourmet Napa Valley inspired deli, as well as a fabulous kitchen store for all your cooking needs.” The kitchen store reflects wit and whimsey of the buyer and any cook would delight in anything in there. Fortunately for us, we have almost everything; this was proven conclusively after the packing and unpacking we’ve just gone through. Lunch was going on and it was lunchtime, so we chose to do it there on their shady porch. Good choice.

my mandarin chinese chicken salad

the core ingredients: mandarin orange, grilled chicken, wonton strips, green onions, red peppers, almonds

carol's turkey blt and greek salad

the nti magazine

 

We have been surprised again and again by the bigger-than-a-football-field sized stores in Reno — Home Depot, Best Buy, Ross, Raley’s, even CVS. So why were we shocked at this vast Whole Foods? We came for fish and creme fraiche, but also picked up coffee, kosher salt, Newman’s Own pretzels, and some lettuce and mushrooms for an upcoming steak salad. A woman customer at the fish counter was raving about the Halibut Burgers, so we got one of those and a Salmon Burger for dinner. It was disappointing that most of their fish was from the east coast.

halibut burger, salmon burger and carrot coins

What a great trip. We saw parts of our new city that we had never before seen, found new places to shop and eat and scored dinner. And now I’m starting to re-focus on eats, as home organization becomes an activity rather than a necessity. I even put beans on to soak this morning.

A Moving Meal

Bean Ragout a la Bon Appitit, Barbara, Lidia and me.
I was inspired by White Bean Ragout with Toast I read about in Bon Appetit on the drive home from our last scout trip to Reno. That recipe is all about building a flavor base for what is essentially a white bean and tomato bread salad made soup by adding liquid. The soffritto, an Italian blend of chopped cooked aromatics is that flavor base. That’s fine, but the recipe makes about 3 cups of soffritto and only uses 1/2 cup… refrigerate or freeze the balance for use in many strange and wonderful ways. Well… I’m trying to EMPTY the freezer.
I do have a container of Lidia’s Soup Base in the freezer. (Lidia Bastianich: if you don’t know her, you are missing out.) I’m not sure what’s in it or why I made it in the first place, but I’ll bet it’ll be good with white beans. So I got that out to thaw and I’m on my way to some kind of bean soup or stew. I checked my recipe files and glommed onto Barbara Kafka’s Bean and Kale Soup.

So I had a plan, and all I needed was the Kale. I’ll start with Barbara’s Bean and Kale Soup but substitute Lidia’s Soup Base for the broth and borrow the croutons from the Bon Appitit recipe.

The ragout is cooked and croutons in the bowl.

Ragout on the table.

Feast in the midst of chaos.

That was delicious.

Lidia’s Soup Base turned out to be a bit tomatoey and garlicy and made it really great with the beans and greens. I used farfalle pasta — which I don’t much like — but we had a bunch of it in the cupboard, so using it up is a good thing.

Here’s what I did:

Bean & Kale Ragout with Croutons
Adapted from Bean & Kale Soup, from Soup: A Way of Life by Barbara Kafka
Altered and rewritten by Marcus, Judith Jones style.

Makes about 5 cups; 4 first-course servings.

PREP
Wash and trim 1 bunch kale and in a medium saucepan, over medium heat, cook the kale with 1?2 cup (125 ml) water and 1 teaspoon kosher salt until tender. Drain and coarsely chop the kale, reserving any liquid that remains.

Rub some slices rustic bread with garlic, drizzle with olive oil and bake on a baking sheet at 400°F for about 5 minutes until just right. (I keep slices of bread in the freezer for this purpose, and bake in the countertop convection oven.)

COOK
Very finely chop 2 flat anchovy fillets together with the 1?4 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves or dried. Reserve.

Put on enough water for 1/2 cup shell pasta and cook for 5 or 6 minutes (half the time on the package). Reserve in its water if necessary.

Smash and peel 2 garlic cloves and in a medium saucepan, stir together 1?3 cup (80 ml) olive oil and the garlic over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the garlic is pale gold, about 10 minutes. Take the pan off heat and stir in the anchovies and rosemary for 1 minute. [A furious sizzle ensues when you throw the anchovies into the very hot oil.]

Discard the garlic. Put the pan back on heat and stir in the kale and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring to thoroughly coat it with the oil. Stir in 1 cup drained, cooked small white beans (or rinsed canned beans). Cook for 3 minutes.

Stir in the reserved kale cooking liquid and 3 cups broth (here’s where I used Lidia’s Soup Base). Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and stir in 1?2 cup (60 g) of your partially cooked small shell macaroni. Simmer for 6 minutes, or until the pasta is tender. Adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Place 3 or 4 croutons in each serving bowl, top with the beans greens and broth.

Pass Parmesan cheese and freshly ground pepper at the table.
~~~~

I noodled around in my recipe database and actually found a recipe I might have used for Lidia’s Soup Base — a part of larger cook-most-of-the-day Hearty Minestra Base with Cranberry Beans, Potatoes, and Pork

It is not so different from the Soffritto of the Bon Appitit recipe. (Ironically, I rejected that recipe because I didn’t want to make the soffritto, only to discover I had something similar in my own freezer.) So I altered Bon Appitit to make it tomatoey, and suggest that. I’m not sure I’m right and I haven’t tested this, but it seems a lot like Lidia’s other soffritto recipes. When I get moved, I promise to test it.

Faux Lidia Soup Base
PREP
Garlic — finely grate 3 garlic cloves.
Chop 3 medium onions and 1 red bell pepper — Pulse in a food processor until finely chopped but not puréed. Mix well in a bowl.
COOK
Heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion mixture (it may splatter) and season with salt and pepper. Simmer, stirring often, until vegetables are completely softened, about 30 minutes. Make a hot spot in the middle of your skillet; add the finely grated garlic and 2 teaspoons tomato paste and cook, stirring that into the onion mixture until tomato paste begins to turn deep red, about 3 minutes. Add a large can of San Marzano tomatoes with their juices. Break up the tomatoes with your hands or a wooden spoon and cook for at least 30 minutes until all the flavors are blended and the sauce is smooth.

Bon Appitit, as they say.
Yum, as I say.

MOVIN’ ON

When Carol’s Retirement story was published, so many asked, “Now what will Carol do?”

“I’m going to RENO !” she said.

That’s not news. Since Brian moved there, we go to Reno three or four times a year to visit Brian and Natasza — or just to go. We like Reno. The difference this time — we’re not coming back… we bought a house in Reno.

Here’s the deal:

A freshly minted Ensign in the Navy in 1962, I was stationed in San Diego. Anticipating a transfer “back east,” that summer Carol and I took a driving trip to Disneyland, San Francisco, Reno, Las Vegas. That was our first visit to Reno. I remember getting a flat tire on the long causeway across the flats leading to Sacramento. When we left our Reno motel, I backed the car into a tree. Why return to that wretched place?

But the years rolled off the clock and in May, 2009. Carol and I went to Reno to meet a real estate agent and scout houses for son Brian. We stayed at Peppermill. WOW.

Brian was being transferred from his job as an research entomologist for the Exotic and Invasive Weeds Research Unit of the USDA in Montpellier, France to a similar position in Reno, NV, USA. Brian bought a house and moved in that August. Since, we’ve visited many times and grew to like the place.

Reno has seasons. It can be darned cold in the winter, but when it snows, the snow goes quickly as there’s often some welcome warming sun during the day. Summer days can be hot — it’s a dry heat, as they say — but since it’s high desert, it cools off at night. I experienced a similar climate during my nearly two years in Jerusalem.

This year, we went to visit Brian for Christmas. Driving into Reno, we saw a billboard by I-80, “Sierra Canyon, A Del Webb +55 Community.” Carol said, “That might be worth a look.” We looked on Christmas Day, went back three days straight and made an offer on a house before we left Reno. WOW, again.

9135 Spruce Creek Court

We’ve lived in San Francisco, in the same perfect flat, for almost exactly 20 years. In April 1992, I moved — along with some furniture — and started work in SF. Carol joined me with the balance of our furniture in August, after finishing up at her school in Newton MA.

Our flat on Union Street, Russian Hill, San Francisco is fabulous. It’s so convenient for all the things we like to do. We can walk to Polk Street, Cow Hollow, the Marina and North Beach. The 45 bus passes through Chinatown and Union Square and goes on to ATT Park and the Giants. We love living in the City. But Union Street is steep, and there are 14 terrazzo steps to our flat. Hey, it’s good exercise, but we are 20 years older. If one of us should fall or just get a joint out of joint, we’d be in a fine pickle.

We like the way we can easily use inside/outside at Brian’s house. Our new house is on one level with no steps, our back patio faces North for the shade. Our front porch faces South for the sun and a swell view of the Sierras. I’ll be able to cook a lot more on the grill. Maybe get a Big Green Egg just like Mark and Jannie’s.

back yard

front porch

We won’t have our beloved Giants at ATT Park — though we can get all their games on the TV. We will have the Reno Aces, a AAA team in their own new and swell ballpark. We’re already members of the Great Basin Food Coop.

Aces "cap day" on the "club level" (actually a restaurant overlooking the ball park)

after some eats, we moved to our seats

Our move date is not until the first week of June, so I’ll be around here packing and cooking and trying to work in some writing. Sure, we’ll miss the action and activity of the city, but as I said to Carol when we looked at “The Tahoe” Model Home at Sierra Canyon, “Hey, this is like being on vacation.”

Fabulous Broccoli

I’ve been thinking about broccoli since a meal at the El Paisano hotel in Marfa TX. The restaurant wasn’t great and the meal wasn’t great but the broccoli was fabulous. I bought some broccoli at the first Market after we got back.

First off, buy (or grow) fabulous broccoli, so fabulous that when you separate the buds, they will look great.

Make your favorite vinaigrette. For this one, I used 1 tablespoon Navarro Vineyards Gewurztraminer Vinegar, 3 tablespoons Stonehouse Sevillano XV Olive Oil, 1 clove garlic, sliced very thin, and shook it up in a used up Mustard Mistress Sassy Sensation mustard jar, a scant amount of mustard clinging to the sides and bottom of the jar.

Steam the broccoli until it is just right to the bite. For me, four minutes. I cool mine on a “cooling rack” I put over the sink; or you can plunge it in cold water then drain well.

Lay down your vinaigrette on a plate.

Arrange your broccoli on the plate.

Beautiful, no?

I warmed plates on top of the oven while potatoes baked.

Serve your broccoli. This is with a Fatted Calf Lamb Crepinette (with greens and pine nuts), plus a small baked potato and half of a peeled, raw tomato.

Yum.

So fabulous that I had the leftover broccoli with a sliced leftover baked potato for breakfast.