Summer Stew and Le Creuset

Events and Discoveries

This just started out as Monday dinner. I bought this wild caught shrimp at Shogun at the Market on Saturday, and needed to use them. Since I found this recipe for Summer Shrimp & Corn Sauté last week and had it on my mind, I bought the fresh corn, as well. In this season, I always have lots of fresh tomatoes on hand.

I did the recipe straight and was not disappointed. So why write about a straight, easy, darned good recipe?

summer stew cooks

summer stew cooks

When I transcribed the recipe from the SF Chronicle (ok, copy and paste from the “e-edition”) I made a note to serve with grits, since I had a hankering for grits at the time. Today, I had a hankering for polenta (largely because Carol got a tube of store-bought polenta to serve with pesto last week, and I ate it a couple times for breakfast and lunch). I haven’t yet perfected my go-to polenta recipe, foolproof, good tasting, EZ making. Although I have evolved beyond the stand over the pot and stir for a half hour stage, I still haven’t reached the tried and true ingredients + method = results stage. Good time to work on it.

polenta cooks

polenta cooks

This time, I combined a Mark Bittman “Polenta Without Fear” (3 to 1, liquid to cornmeal) recipe with a recipe I transcribed from a Cooks Illustrated video (4 to 1, liquid to cornmeal). Basically, I added a cup of milk to the Bittman recipe (2C milk, 2C water; CI uses all water) and used the CI method: “Bring liquid to a boil with lid on, sprinkle corn meal into water while whisking vigorously…” I interpreted “vigorously” as “in a frenzy” from the video. Cover (Bittman doesn’t cover) and cook over low low heat for 1/2 hour, whisking every 5 minutes. (Note: you see a wooden spoon in the picture. That was for final stirring, I used a strong whisk for the initial whisking.) Continue reading

HB C Barbacco

Happy Birthday, Carol

Happy Birthday, Carol

After sitting through a dreadful film (Brighton Rock) at the Embarcadero, Carol and Sarah and I walked the two blocks to Barbacco to enjoy an after film supper.

I often forget how much I like Barbacco. It projects casual, bar bites, hanging out, not really “dining.” And yet, their eclectic Italian fare is always imaginative, well prepared and wholly satisfying; they serve a wide variety of tasty things as you shall see – and almost all of them can and should be shared.

Herewith, some menu descriptions and photos, when I remembered to take them.

We started with, and pieced on, marinated olives, herbs and spices, and with the assistance of our server, ordered a bottle of Cantine Barbera-2009 Nero d’Avola, Sicilia, a light — and delightful, I must say — red wine, for the meal.

poached tuna and stuff... oops, ate it already

poached tuna and stuff... oops, ate it already

This is only a little bit of the olive oil poached tuna / corona beans / squash tomato / rucola / herbs I ordered for the table (OK, mostly for me). It looked so good — and it was — that I forgot to get out my camera until… now.

hbc_squid
My local squid alla piastra / fennel / chili
garlic / spicy pan grattato
. This dish was quite spicy, as indicated, and yes, I did share a few morsels.

my share plate

my share plate

My “share plate.” To the left, Sarah’s lasagna Bolognese – spinach meat ragu / balsamella sauce pasta, an excellent preparation of the classic dish; and Carol’s polpette – Sicilian meatballs with raisins and pine nuts / braised chard / tomato sugo; not nearly as exciting as the stuff I ordered, sez I, but real tasty.

And of course, the birthday cake:

hbc_cake

Somehow, “olive oil cake” doesn’t convey the lusciousness of this piece of cake, but luscious it was, served with marinated peaches and whipped crème fraiche.

That supper served its purpose, it took away the bad taste of the film (very unusual for SFFS Member’s preview films), and celebrated Carol’s birthday in fine style. Perhaps we should make Barbacco our regular birthday joint, but the next “local” birthday (mine) isn’t until February. Pity.

GREEN and BLUE Tour

Blue Cheese at Point Reyes
Organic Greens at County Line Harvest

PtR_windblown_tree

After assembling at the Ferry Building and driving north through Marin County about 65 miles with our personable and curious driver, “DJ,” we passed this windblown tree by the lane to Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company.

Think there might be a strong prevailing wind here? Well, it wasn’t around for our spectacularly beautiful day on the farm.

PtR_the_fork

After arriving, while folks relieved themselves from the bus ride, we hung out for a while at The Fork, the facility here for education, entertaining and specialty chef dinners. We would later have lunch here. Nice place.

PtR_booties
Soon, we donned sanitary boots. I wasn’t present for the “why” of that, but imagined we might be slogging through some — shall we say, waste material? — on our tour. Far from it, the farm is one of the cleanest I’ve experienced. The boots protect the clean environment in the warehouse from the various evils us city folk track in while observing the wrapping and packing operations.

This was our first time in a tight group, a perfect opportunity for a few questions and answers. Bob Giacomini and his daughter Jill were our fearless leaders.

Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company. Farmstead means that they only use milk that they produce themselves on this 700 acre farm where they are milking 330 cows.

One gallon of milk, weighing about 8 1/2 pounds, produces one pound of cheese. Since they make 700,000 pounds of their Original Blue cheese a year alone, that’s a lotta milk. On the other hand, big commercial cheese producers make a million pounds a day.

PtR_wrap_cheesePtR_barry_cheese_wrap

Booties off, we proceeded to the shed where the expectant mothers wait for their time. Continue reading

Perfect Grilled Dinner

…except for the oops.

Wednesday, I got together a perfect dinner for the grill:

gp_ready2grill

Marinated pork brochette from Fatted Calf,
New potatoes from Marquita Farm,
Romano Beans from Iacopi Farm and
a lovely spring onion.

When I lit the grill, it caught rather slowly, I just closed the lid and went in the kitchen to finish prepping the vegetables. But I had this nagging thought… “could I be out of gas?”

The timer went off at 15 minutes to signal the grill is hot and I went to the back porch only to find the grill temperature about 250°F, not the 600 it should be. No panic, just get out the cast iron.

I got the gas grill because it takes less time for the fire to be ready, and clean-up is way easier than charcoal. Conversely, it’s not as aesthetically swell and unlike charcoal, you cannot tell when you run out of fuel. For the first couple years, I kept a log of when I used the grill, so I’d know when I was nearing the tank’s 20 hour capacity. That was cumbersome, and I gave it up.

gp_grill_pan

Pork and onions and beans will cook nicely in the cast iron grill pan, just fry the potatoes in the cast iron skillet.

gp_ci_skillet

Except for the grill pan throwing off some serious smoke, that worked fine. It ain’t the same as grilling and we could tell, but that pork — I’m not sure how or in what it was marinated — was fabulous. Just goes to show… start with good stuff.

gp_served

Y’know, sometimes I’m inclined to write about a meal just because the pictures are good (not to mention that the meal was good). That might be the case here.

Good Dinner; chicken, tomato, corn

So Carol said, “What a good dinner.”

Wow. Don’t hear that very often. The thing is, it was dead simple: looed chicken over rice, roasted Costaluto Genovese tomatoes, faux grilled Mexican corn; but I do have some ‘splainin’ to do.

LOOED CHICKENgd_plate_above
I wrote about that last September when I unearthed my recipe from back in Jerusalem days. On this occasion, I did three bone-in chicken thighs. I removed the skin before looing… the skin would just add fat to the sauce and not really contribute any flavor to the chicken as it would if it were fried or roasted. Good and juicy and yummy. There’s no way to screw it up.

RICE
For small amounts of straightforward long grain boiled rice, I cook the rice in my new favorite throw-it-in-boiling-water-like-pasta method. Throw whatever amount in boiling water; 10 minutes later, taste for doneness and strain it. Keep it warm in the strainer in the same pot with the lid on over a little bit of hot water.

ROASTED TOMATOES
I wrote about roasted tomatoes just last May 2010 when I discovered Costaluto Genovese tomatoes. I did the same way with bread crumbs (fresh from an Acme Herb Loaf) and a bit of butter and cheese — this time mozzarella remaining from what I used for a pizza last week.

gd_grill_corn

Instead of roasting in the oven, I put the pan on the grill while I was grilling the corn (10 minutes). Didn’t really get any “grilled flavor,” but didn’t have to heat up the oven.

CORN
I’m not a fan of corn-on-the-cob, but I am a fan of grilled corn. I have a recipe for Mexican Grilled Corn that I like from Readers Digest Recipes – probably a newspaper insert – in 2007. (Guess what, Mark Bittman did an almost identical recipe in the New York Times in 2010.) In any case, I made it my way for off-the-cob eating.

I just mixed the butter, mayo, parmesan and chili powder together and mixed that up with the hot corn cut off the cob. I used a little less parmesan and a little extra chili powder. My convoluted reasoning was that when you roll the corn-on-the-cob in the Parmesan, you don’t use it all, so use a little less to mix. Likewise, when you sprinkle with chili powder, that’s right up against your lips, so it’s like mainlining chili powder; thus, mixed in, use a little more. Carol thought it was pretty spicy (just the way I like it).

and that was dinner. yum

and that was dinner. yum

Mexican Grilled Corn
Readers Digest Recipes 2007

4 ears corn, cleaned
1 tablespoon butter
salt & pepper
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/3 cup grated Parmesan
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
lime wedges

Brush corn with butter and season with salt & pepper.
Grill over high heat, turning every 2 to 3 minutes until tender and slightly charred, 10 to 12 minutes. Rest 2 to 3 minutes.
Brush corn with mayo and roll in cheese to coat. Sprinkle with chili powder. Serve with lime wedges.

July 23, 2010
Grilled Corn, Mexican Style
NYT Mark Bittman Yield: 4 servings.
Time: About 20 minutes

4 ears of corn, husked
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon chili powder, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

1. Prepare a grill, with heat medium-high and rack about 4 inches from the fire. Put corn on grill and cook until kernels begin to char, about 5 minutes, then turn. Continue cooking and turning until all sides are slightly blackened.

2. Mix together mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder and some salt and pepper in a small bowl. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more lime juice or chili powder if you like. Serve corn with chili-lime mayo.

There are other options: olive oil, chopped basil and Parmesan make an unexpected and very good combo; crumbled feta mixed with plain yogurt, lemon juice, oregano and cumin is amazing; and you can’t go wrong with mayo mixed with minced garlic, pimentón and parsley.

Tomato Another Way

Tomato season is on us again and I am loving it. This is not news… I’ve written about tomatoes many times. Just put tomato in the “search” deal and you’ll find stuff.

t_detail_2

Today at lunch, I hit upon a new way (for me) of preparing and serving a tomato. Imagine that. I was about to heat up a piece of swordfish (white) and a potato cake (also white) from yesterday’s lunch at Sam’s Chowder House in Half Moon Bay and thought, “I need something colorful and bright-tasting to go with this.”

t_bowl_o_tomatoes
The big bowl of tomatoes from Saturday’s Farmer’s Market sat on the table and invited itself into my brain. By that time, the fish and potato were in the warming oven and I didn’t want to boil water and peel a tomato and I didn’t want to get juices on my potato and swordfish and I didn’t want a cold sliced tomato.
This morning, I peeled and sliced a tomato and cooked it in a skillet just long enough to warm it… that was good. I’ll bet if I slice a tomato and cook it in a skillet, the skin will slip right off. So that’s just what I did.
So, the idea for that tomato and today’s lunch, started with Sunday’s lunch. Sunday’s dinner contributed, as did this morning’s breakfast. Continue reading

ROASTED HEIRLOOM TOMATO SAUCE

You read my Sardinian Meatball story and I promised Roasted Cherokee Purple Tomato Sauce. rs_sauce_detailToday I deliver, even though Cherokee Purple Tomatoes are not yet in season; you’ll be ready when they come. Actually, the recipe is for “Heirloom Tomatoes,” and these pictures show a mixed variety of heirlooms, but the Cherokee Purple, by themselves, are my favorite.

In July of 2009, Georgeanne Brennan, in a Special to The Chronicle, wrote an excellent story on various tomatoes and sauces that included Roasted Heirloom Tomato Sauce. She grows her own tomatoes, so she has plenty to deal with and experiment with. Like me, she likes making her own sauce:

“I like being able to use my own ready-made sauce. I don’t even thaw it. I just put the frozen block in a pan, along with about a quarter cup of water, cover the pan and simmer until the block has melted. Then I remove the cover, turn up the heat and cook until the sauce is the consistency I want, usually thick enough for me to trace a clean path across the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, with no sauce rushing to cover the path.

Ideally, my husband and I make and freeze enough tomato sauce to supply ourselves from late October through June, those months when tomatoes are out of season. We start making our sauce in mid-August, when the tomatoes are ripening in the full summer heat, and continue until the first freeze arrives and our tomato vines blacken and shrivel.”

But she grows her own tomatoes and was educated in France. I’m just a city-boy, buying my tomatoes at the Farmers Market or direct from farmers and picking up recipes and techniques as I go along. I’ve used the “bag and freeze” method she describes. I also like to store 3-cups of my sauce in Quart containers with lids that stack nicely in the freezer. They’re easy to open and pop into a pan for thawing. Last year, I tried canning, which has its advantages and disadvantages. Continue reading

Joyce Goldstein's Sardinian Meatballs

LA Times via Wednesday Chef

I got this recipe from the Wednesday Chef who got it from the LA Times and I’ve been cooking it since at least 2006… that’s what my notes say. So it’s got to be a favorite.mb_detail

Here are some of my notes:

Cooked 6.06… I made the simple tomato sauce she suggested using my frozen San Marzano sauce. Made CI Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes to go with. That’s good-eatin’ comfort food… couldn’t put down my fork.
Cooked 4.08 – Just keeps on bein’ good. – see below
Cooked 3.11 — Dang all, these are good… why don’t I do them more often? Mixed about 1/4 ground beef and 3/4 sausage in the Kitchen Aid. The recipe doesn’t say to brown the balls, but I did. Used my chunky tomato sauce.

Why don’t I do them more often? As you readers of eats… know, I’m always up for trying new stuff, so that’s one reason. But then, I have several other good meatball recipes and really, how often does a meatball craving come around on the big wheel?
I’ve written about meatballs only twice on eats: Polly Dutton Meatballs in ‘aught six and Pappardelle with a ragu of tiny meatballs in 2008; so it’s been a while.

Generally I vary the ingredients for these Sardinian Meatballs each time, depending on whim or what I have on hand. Joyce Goldstein calls for all pork, but for this occasion, I used 3 Italian sausages from Golden Gate Meat — about 5/8 pound — and the balance ground beef. I’ve incorporated beef before, but never more than a quarter of a pound. They seemed a little heavier than usual this time. Just go with Joyce… pork rules, let it rule.

So, just assemble the ingredients and mix ‘em together. Its easy to mix by hand, but since I got my Kitchen Aid stand mixer, that is my preferred method; easy, clean and more thorough mixing without overmixing.

The recipe suggests that they be served over spaghetti or mashed potatoes. I have gone both ways, but today I was in the mood for spaghetti.

A word about spaghetti. For long pasta, I like thin spaghetti or store-bought fresh fettuccine or especially my homemade egg noodles. I find “regular spaghetti” too fat and heavy — just me. At my local Real Food market, they had shelves of DeCecco dried pasta, but no thin spaghetti. I could have walked two blocks to Cheese Plus, but instead bought a box of Bella Italia Capellini. That was fine (in more ways than one), but I still prefer thin spaghetti.

For sauce, I got out a container of roasted cherokee purple tomato sauce that I made and froze last fall. That stuff is serious good; rich and dark and sweet and dense and perfect. (I thought I had featured this sauce on eats, but no. Good subject for the next entry.)

The meatballs with their sauce were served over capellini with a side dish of braised carrots, a hunk of pecorino to grate and a very nice Simi Cabernet Sauvignon.

mb_served

Sardinian Meatballs
Serves 4 to 6

1 pound ground pork
1/4 cup dried or 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs [I almost always make my own breadcrumbs. This time from an Acme Herb Slab about three days old.]
6 tablespoons grated pecorino cheese
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Give these ingredients an initial brief mix, then add

2 eggs [I prefer to lightly beat the eggs before adding.]

For the sauce:
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 3/4 cups canned tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup water
I always use my own tomato sauce, made with fresh tomatoes.

1. In a bowl, combine the pork, bread crumbs, eggs, cheese, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper and mixed together until smooth. Form the mixture into balls about 1 inch in diameter.

In a saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and water, mix well, and then add the meatballs.
Here, I depart from the recipe. I brown the meatballs lightly in olive oil, then pour my sauce over them to continue cooking.

4. Bring the sauce to a gentle boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the meatballs are cooked through and tender, about 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with mashed potatoes or spaghetti.

meatballs brown

meatballs brown

meatballs cook in tomato sauce

meatballs cook in tomato sauce

Yum. Good stuff.

STATE FAIR CHILI

A few years ago, I posted “Chili: My Top Five“. (April 4, 2007). A couple of years later, Carol found this chili recipe on the Food Network (or saw the show, or something), and made it for dinner. It incorporates pretty much everything a chili aficionado would hate: ground meat, lots of canned beans – 2 kinds, canned tomatoes and red and yellow bell pepper. I call it “state fair chili” because it’s just like my mother used to make for the Methodist Church booth at the Ohio State Fair. Not too soupy, not too spicy.

Carol made it pretty straight, with all the canned stuff, but I twist it a little. Still, it’s nothing like my top five, but a nice change of pace from time to time when you want a hearty meal.

Do you ever read the “Prep Time” and “Cook Time” in recipes… especially in Food Network recipes? I used to, but now I glance at it and then glance at the recipe. If the ingredient list is fairly long and the word “chopped” is used a lot, then it will probably take way longer than they say — unless, of course, you have a team of prep cooks. I don’t. So this one said:
Prep Time: 15 min
Cook Time: 1 hr 45 min

Let’s see, we have some chopping to do:

6 slices thick-cut applewood smoked bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, chopped

and we need to do some measuring:

3 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon chipotle chili powder
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prep Time: 15 minutes? In a pigs ass… It took me an hour — I really did time it. Now I may be a bit persnickety – I like to peel my bell peppers, for example, but still.

Cook Time 1 hour 45 minutes? Closer. It took 30 min from bacon to bubbly (cook bacon, cook vegetables, brown meat, stir in beans and tomatoes and get bubbly). Then it says “simmer for 1 1/2 hours, then it says “best if you let it sit for an hour after cooking.” So where does that hour go? So I get 4 hours from start of prep to start of dinner. That’s OK… just tell me.

start off by cooking your bacon

start off by cooking your bacon

add your vegetables and spices and cook until softened

add your vegetables and spices and cook until softened

add your beef and brown, add your sausage and brown, stir into the vegetables

add your beef and brown, add your sausage and brown, stir into the vegetables

add your beans and stir in

add your beans and stir in

add your tomatoes, bring to bubbly and simmer

add your tomatoes, bring to bubbly and simmer

I cooked my chili in the afternoon, then re-heated for dinner (a massive amount of chili in a cast iron pot doesn’t cool very quickly).

c_chili_served

The chili turned out quite thick, making a pile of chili rather than a bowl of chili. Carol said I could have served it on a plate, recalling the first time I went to her house to meet her parents. Continue reading