Tomato Sauce

From Farm to Freezer

It’s almost exactly 100 miles from my house to Mariquita Farm, just outside Hollister CA, and it takes almost exactly 2 hours to get there for the U-pick Tomatoes day. Take 101 through Gilroy and turn left on 25 toward Hollister. Turn left onto Shore Road and left onto San Felipe Road. The farm is on the left; if you cross the creek, you’ve gone too far.

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We go almost every year in September and pick enough Early Girl and San Marzano tomatoes to make enough sauce to last a year, two flats. The first year we went, we picked four flats, too much good stuff.
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On Beans and Broth

A Cook’s Weekend

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I am a football fan. On Saturdays from now until January there are college games all over the TV, up to 12 on a given Saturday. There are few college games I feel I need to watch, but it’s nice to be able click around and get a sense of what’s going on. My metabolism won’t let me sit in front of the TV from 9 a.m. until 8 p.m., so I can have games on in the kitchen and cook. In the past, with “rabbit ears” TV, we got FOX and ABC fine, CBS was wavy and the sound came and went, and we didn’t get NBC at all, and of course none of the cable channels. Now, with Cable in the kitchen, I can get anything anytime. Hooray!

On this Saturday I made a pound of Rancho Gordo Ojo de Cabra (Goat’s Eye) beans for dinner to serve with Black Cod and a Greek Salad. That was done to the tune of my Buckeyes whupping up on Penn State. I put the beans in to soak about 10.
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Ohio Eats III

Part 3: Lancaster Redux and Cincinnati

This is the third installment of a three part odyssey surrounding my trip to the Columbus West High School Class of January 1956 reunion. It’s all about the food, what I call Ohio food. It’s different than what you’ve been reading about in this space for two reasons: For one, I’m traveling, and for two, the choices in Ohio are different than those in Northern California, much different.

Since I made the long trip to Ohio for a weekend, I extended the trip on each end for some adventures in Cincinnati, and passed through Carol’s homestead in Lancaster in each direction, as well. The first two parts were posted earlier; The Heartland, Columbus and the Reunion.

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Sunday, August 20, 2006 (continued)
LUNCH
“I’mmmm Baaaaack,” I called out as I came through the door. Liz and Bus were in their chairs and Bus said, “Alan will pick us up at four to go to the Logan Country Club for dinner.” Whodathunk there would ever be such a thing as Logan Country Club?!

“You folks had lunch?” I asked. Not really but not much thinking about it. “I’m going to Bob Evans (an Ohio cultural institution) so I can write about it. Want to come along?”

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“No, you go ahead, we’ll just have a little something here… dinner’s coming up.” Bob Evans is a mile or so toward town on the ridge above Memorial Drive. Although there was a wait, one for lunch with no preference on smoking, snagged a quick seat at a table near the window in the smoking section. Nobody was smoking, I doubt that anybody would in a Bob Evans.
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Peeling Tips

As you know by now, I have a penchant for peeling.

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tomatoes, tuna tartare, Italian potato salad

Since I made my post on peeling back in January, I’ve learned a thing or two. The breakthrough came in a recipe that included pearl onions in Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Cookbook. Keller said to put the onions in a small container, pour boiling water over them and pour it off after ten seconds or so. Hallelujah Lord, I see the light! I had been used to boiling a big pot of water—which takes forever—and then dumping the pearl onions in, only to take them out after ten seconds or so. This way, I can put the onions in a bowl of a size to fit, boil an appropriate amount of water—a cup or so, which takes no time—pour it over the pearl onions, wait ten seconds, dump the onions into a strainer and go about the peeling.

This works for garlic, as well.

For a weekend lunch, I had some leftover Tuna Tartare and I thought it would be swell to put it on fresh tomato slices.

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Well, I wanted to peel three, small Early Girl tomatoes, and not go through the process of boiling a whole pot of water. I put about an inch of water in a saucepan, brought it to a boil in about a minute, put in the three tomatoes and swirled them around for about ten seconds, and lifted them out onto the cutting board with a slotted spoon. I had them cored and peeled in no time! Viola! Later, I did a large Cherokee Purple heirloom tomato the same way. Viola again!

Thank you Thomas Keller, again. I know that Kelly has the Bouchon Cookbook. For you others, buy it. It’s one of the best cookbooks ever.

Cooking Through a Week

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some baby turnips and a potato

When I go to the Farmers Market on Saturday mornings, I rarely have meals in mind, I just want to see what looks good and what looks good to me on that day. If I’ve been doing recipe research, I might look for specific things, but that’s not usually the case.

For example, at the Shogun Fish Company stand, the scallops looked just beautiful. We hadn’t had scallops in a good while, so I bought a pack of four, about 1/2 pound, perfect for two. At the Iacopi Farms stand, the Romano beans looked great and I still had fresh English peas, another of their specialties, from the previous week. And so on.

As a result, last week we cooked a number of “no brainer” meals. For me, those are the ones where I just go to the kitchen, get out the stuff and get it on. Sometimes there are recipes involved, but when there are, they are so adapted as to be only cue cards to the preparation.
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Appetizers and Snacks

The Evolution of an Appetizer

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Back in the day, there was Adults Hour. That was at 6pm in Roanoke, after the kids had been fed. Adults, that would be Carol and me, were not to be disturbed while they had their cocktails and appetizer before their dinner.

In Newton, once the kids were of a certain age, Eric and Brian would eat later with us, but the six o’clock hour was still sacred.
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Ohio Eats II

Part 2 — Columbus and the Reunion

This is the second installment of a three part odyssey surrounding my trip to the Columbus West High School Class of January 1956 reunion. It’s all about the food, what I call Ohio food. It’s different than what you’ve been reading about in this space for two reasons: For one, I’m traveling, and for two, the choices in Ohio are different than those in Northern California, much different.

Since I made the long trip to Ohio for a weekend, I extended the trip on each end for some adventures in Cincinnati, and passed through Carol’s homestead in Lancaster in each direction, as well. This epistle is divided into three parts; The Heartland, Columbus and the Reunion, and finally Lancaster Redux and Cincinnati.

Friday, August 18, 2006 (continued)
LUNCH
Short North in Columbus is a district that seems invented. Dream up a cool name and a logo… put some metal arches with lights across High Street every quarter block or so… restore a couple of buildings converted to condos or apartments… encourage the commercial landlords to lease to “proper tenants” and watch it go. It’s located north of downtown, just north of the convention center, and south of the Ohio State campus. My reason for being in Short North is to have lunch at White Castle. “Four Sliders and a small coffee.”

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New Sausages

…or Dinner From Head-scratch to Table

Riding home from work at the San Francisco Film Society, I thought about what’s-for-dinner. The cour di bue, Ox-heart heirloom paste tomatoes I brought from the Saturday Market at the Mariquita Farms stall, were getting soft and needed to be used. I had already decided on Tomatoes Concassees, a fresh tomato sauce recipe from Andy at the Farm. It’s quick and easy and good and will use all the tomatoes, including the Early Girls I have. But what to go with?

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I remembered seeing sausages, new from Fra’Mani, at Cheese +. I have wanted to try those, what better time? I bought a pack of Classic Italian and a pack of Spicy Italian, three fat sausages to the pack. They looked scrumptious, even the packaging was seductive. Cheese + didn’t have any fresh pasta, not that I noticed, but I didn’t look very hard. I thought we had some Barilla Spaghetti at home.
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Ohio Eats I

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Part 1 — The Heartland

This is the first installment of a three part odyssey surrounding my trip to the Columbus West High School Class of January 1956 Reunion. It’s all about the food, what I call Ohio food. It’s different than what you’ve been reading about in this space for two reasons: For one, I’m traveling, and for two, the choices in Ohio are different than those in Northern California, much different.

Since I made the long trip to Ohio for a weekend, I extended the trip on each end for some adventures in Cincinnati, and passed through Carol’s homestead in Lancaster in each direction, as well. This epistle is divided into three parts; The Heartland, Columbus and the Reunion, and finally Lancaster Redux and Cincinnati.

Wednesday August 16
BREAKFAST
My flight was scheduled at a reasonable time of 7:40 a.m. but current security regulations obliged me to arrive at the airport at 5:45 a.m. Not reasonable, but that’s the flying life nowadays. Curbside check-in was easy so I had plenty of time to get a coffee and an oatmeal raisin cookie at Just Desserts on the concourse. One would expect that a dessert maker would make a scrumptious cookie, but no. The cookie was large and looked right but turned out to be dry as dust. Half was all I could eat, so I saved the rest for later, but ended up tossing it.
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West High School

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As toward the West the constant sun proceeds
Day after day across the sky
So will our hearts hold true to you
West High, West High, West High

I’m off to Columbus, Ohio for my High School Reunion, so keep your eyes open for the skinny on Ohio food and good eats.