Cheese Road

Inside the American Cheese Society Festival of Cheese

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In mid-June, Eric, cheesemaker at Monroe Cheese Studio and number one son, emailed to say he was driving the Maine Cheese Guild‘s entries to the American Cheese Festival in Chicago at the end of July. If I wanted to come and help drive, my lodging and some food would be covered. I’m a sucker for a road trip and had nothing pressing on my plate, so I said, “Why not?” The fact that my wife Carol hates road trips and I hadn’t been on one since ought-four made the decision easy.

But to do this trip, I’d have to fly red-eye to Boston to hook up with Eric, then drive 16 hours to Chicago. Not attractive. Looking outside the U.S. box I found that I could fly 6:30am to 5pm to Montreal and have Eric pick me up there. That makes a shorter trip to Chicago and no red-eye. Now my juices were flowing with anticipation. Who knew what age 70 would bring.

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The American Cheese Society Conference and Competition Awards. All I knew was that last year it was in Vermont and Eric won third prize for his Thistle Blue Cheese.

How big is it? Research told me that last year 1,209 cheeses and dairy products were entered involving 181 producers from 30 states and 3 Canadian provinces. It took 30 judges to determine the prizes. Wow. Eric sent me a form to volunteer for work setting up the Festival in exchange for a free apron and a ticket to the evening Festival tasting (worth $85). Who could pass that up? Continue reading

Vancouver Eats 2

Son Brian traveled from France to present a paper in Vancouver, June 21 to 27, Saturday to Friday. We had often talked about seeing Vancouver sometime. What a perfect opportunity. We went. We ate.

Orientation: Downtown Vancouver is a peninsula between Vancouver Harbour to the north and False Creek to the south. Stanley Park occupies the west end. Brian stayed in his convention hotel, the Westin Bayshore (W) at the west end of Georgia Street — Vancouver’s main drag — Carol and I stayed in the Sandman Hotel (S) at the east end of Georgia. Westin = resort hotel, Sandman = Canadian chain hotel, catering to European tour groups. We hung at the Weston and slept at Sandman.

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Here, I recount a walking tour and our last few days of dining in Vancouver. As with most of our unfamiliar big city experiences, there were highs and there were lows; the highs were very high, the lows were merely ordinary. This installment takes us Tuesday through Friday.

Tuesday Breakfast
Rosie’s on Robson
Even though Moxie’s is a good value, for a change o’ pace, we breakfasted at Rosie’s on Robson, a few blocks from Sandman. Pretty good. We shared the BIG BREAKFAST. Carol took the bacon, eggs and toast; I took the potatoes, sausage and beans. Perfecto.

Our BIG BUS ticket expired, so Carol picked a “loop walk” out of our guidebook. It took us down the Granville Mall — a quasi-pedestrian street that just now is having a subway built down its center.

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Vancouver Eats 1

Son Brian traveled from France to present a paper in Vancouver, June 21 to 27, Saturday to Friday. Carol and I had often talked about seeing Vancouver sometime. What a perfect opportunity. We went. We ate.

Orientation: Downtown Vancouver is a peninsula between Vancouver Harbour to the north and False Creek to the south. Stanley Park occupies the west end. Brian stayed in his convention hotel, the Westin Bayshore at the west end of Georgia Street — Vancouver’s main drag — Carol and I stayed in the Sandman Hotel at the east end of Georgia. Westin = resort hotel, Sandman = Canadian chain hotel, catering to European tour groups. We hung at the Weston and slept at Sandman.

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Welcome to Vancouver

Here, I recount our dining scene in Vancouver. As with most of our unfamiliar big city experiences, there were highs, there were lows; the highs were very high, the lows were merely ordinary. This installment takes us through Monday. Continue reading

Chickens in the Field

In April I took the opportunity to visit Marin Sun Farms. We saw lots of pasture, goats, cattle and sheep, but the interesting part for me, was the chicken operation. This time of year, they have both broilers and laying hens.broilers_beef_sea.jpgThese are the broilers, which run about 4 pounds. The pens are on wheels and are moved every day. The cylinders are for organic grain, the grass is the grass. You can see behind the pens, where the grass has been eaten, clawed and shat in. It takes about 8 days for the grass to get back to normal. We’ve eaten two of these guys. Oh my, they’re good. It was sunny, but we enjoyed a constant 30mph wind and temps in the low 50’s, that’s why everyone is bundled up. The farm is in the Point Reyes Preserve, owned by the National Park Service and leased to farmers as pastureland. You can see the Pacific Ocean in the background.
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Waste Wise Farm Tour, Part One

Jepson Prairie Organics

This tour will take us to the Jepson Prairie Organics facility just outside of Dixon CA (southwest of Davis) where food waste from San Francisco and plant waste from Dixon and Vacaville is composted. Following that, we will visit Eatwell Farm, situated between Winters and Davis, one of the places Jepson Prairie Organics’ compost is used.
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Friday June 13 at 8:30, step right up and sign in please. We met in front of the Ferry Building and were obliged to check in and sign an accident/injury waiver for the trip. Closed toed shoes were required; sun hats, sunglasses, sun screen and water were strongly advised, as we were anticipating a sunny day and nearly 100 degrees where we’re going.

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On the way to Jepson Prairie Organics, Julie Cummins, the Director of Education for CUESA explained the Waste Wise Initiative at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.

The program has been wildly successful since it’s start on Earth Day, in April. Having a captive audience, she also stressed the need for volunteers for that program, and acknowledged the sponsorship of, among others, Coach 21, the bus upon which we were riding.
Off the bus, we found a beautiful day, not totally hot and with a light breeze, but gnats. We were told that normal days are hot and very windy, but the wind keeps the gnats away.

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Fiddlehead Fern

Continuing a celebration of Spring

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photo from chow.com

I passed the mushroom stand at the market and there they were, gleaming green and beckoning to me, fiddlehead ferns. Oh boy.

Home and into the refrigerator and well, they slipped my mind for a couple of days. Carol is doing a Cornish hen for dinner and I’m making plane reservations. “Can I use these fiddleheads?” she said.

“Sure, I think we just sautéed them before, but I’ll check the Internet for recipes,” said I.

Well, I Googled “fiddlehead” and the descriptions, facts and recipes came forth as if a fiddlehead cornucopia (if you twist your mind a bit, a fiddlehead looks like a cornucopia.

I learned a lot. It’s especially fun to compare information from various sites, and in the case of fiddleheads, there are experts galore. Most are from the northeast — Maine, Vermont, Quebec — and take pride in the gathering and foraging as well as the cooking and eating. (Rule: Unusual foods have — self-proclaimed — experts, common foods don’t.)
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Beans 'n' Tomatoes

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When I come back from the Farmers Market on Saturday morning, Carol usually has cooking shows on the kitchen TV. As I was putting away the market fare, I heard Joanne Weir say, “I can swoon over an artless dish of braised big white beans in garlicky tomato sauce with a scattering of wild arugula.” I made a note of it.

Weeks or months later,*
I happened to have some cooked Rancho Gordo Runner Cannellini beans and some fresh heirloom tomatoes; it was lunchtime and I was hungry. I didn’t have any arugula, but I imagined it. I keep a jar of Mezzetta Express Deli-Sliced Tamed Jalapeno Peppers on hand because they give good jalapeno flavor without the heat (Carol screams bloody murder if there’s heat).

I went to work.
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Fava Beans

(or, “Demystifying Fava Beans,” as Cook’s Illustrated would say)

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Favas, a sure sign of Spring.
Favas, a process.
Favas, a great, over-the-top, green taste.
Favas, how much is enough?

It is true. One needs some time and patience to get to the great taste part of a Fava Bean. And it’s almost all in prep, because by the time you’ve liberated the beans, the cooking of them is simple and easy. Then it’s all about how to serve, and with what to pair them.

My recipe list includes soups, salads, stews and pasta dishes of one kind or another, most often as a side dish for a main course. They almost always include green garlic — it’s that season, too. In any dish, the fava beans should be the star, it doesn’t work in a supporting role.

Favas Soup — a simple green soup with favas and spring garlic and salt and pepper and water and whatever fresh herb is easily at hand
Fava Bean Orzo, a risotto made with orzo (orzotto?)
Umbrian Fava Bean Stew (Scafata) chopped onion, fennel, chard and tomatoes
Fava Bean Ragout (from Chez Panisse Vegetables by Alice Waters) w/olive oil, rosemary and garlic
Fava alla Romana — (from Classic Italian Coookbook by Marcella Hazan) This is quite wonderful. Not strictly a vegeteble dish, very meaty. Peppery too. w/pancetta
Our Favorite Fava Beans (from Mariquita Farm) sautéed with green garlic and oil
Julia’s Fava and Orzo Salad (from Mariquita Farm) with bits of carrot and radish
Rice Salad with Shrimp and Fava Beans
Fava Bean and Couscous Salad w/scallions and a honey vinaigrette
Fava Beans w/Tomato and sweet onion over tagliatelle
Garganelli Pasta with Fava Beans — (Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook) Garganelli is a type of egg pasta characterized by a shape that resembles a small, ridged, rolled tube, similar to a quill.

Fava and Fresh Ricotta Bruschetta

Time was when I was mystified by favas, what on earth do I do with these? No longer. Continue reading

Farmers Markets. ‘Tis the season.

Bean and Bacon Salad

I live in San Francisco and have my choice of about 20 farmers markets, but in 2008, farmers markets are pretty much everywhere. Besides the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, I’ve shopped at Farmers Markets in San Rafael, Berkeley, Oakland, Sacramento, Healdsburg, Boston, Newton MA, Portland ME, Belfast ME, Columbus OH, and yes, even Lancaster OH. Look around on Saturday or Sunday, you can find one.

This is a farmers market meal. You could make it with stuff from the supermarket, but fresh, local stuff just tastes better.

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Let’s go down the list.
WHITE BEANS. I used Marrow Beans from Rancho Gordo and cooked them the day before. I cook beans half-a-pound at a time. That yields about 4 cups of cooked beans. Well I work at home, so I can cook the beans anytime, you say. I say, put your beans to soak in the morning before you go to work. When you get home, pour your bowl of beans into a saucepan, water and all (you want to change the water, be my guest). Make sure the water covers by at least an inch. (I use a clay pot, which I think is better, but it’s an investment.) Now, bring that to a boil and let it boil for 4 or 5 minutes, cover and turn the heat as low as possible. That takes about 20 minutes. You want the beans to barely simmer. If you have a heat diffuser, that’s good. Set your timer for 45 minutes and do something else.
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Film Food

It’s film festival time — late April, early May — and the 51st San Francisco International Film Festival (SFIFF51) is upon us. In doing menu planning for the Saturday Farmers Market, I noted that we had scheduled films for every dinnertime this week but one — and on that day we had tickets for the Giants v. Rockies baseball game. Time to think about alternative eats.

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bean salad ham loaf sandwich macaroni salad

What is Film Food? It’s gotta be able to be made ahead. Can’t be messy. Must be able to be eaten cold — or at ambient temperature.

Film Society (SFFS) screenings during the year are usually at 7 or 7:30pm. While we reserve spots in advance, the seating is not reserved, so we line up outside up to an hour before the screening in order to secure our favorite seats. The line is part of the experience, part of the social gathering. It also affords a chance to eat a bite before the film is over at nine or later.

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We see folks in line with pizza slices, Burger King boxes, containers of sushi or salad, all purchased nearby to eat while in line or even in the theater before the screening. What’s available at the concession stand is hardly healthy or good eats (I’m not a popcorn guy), and frightfully expensive, and the concession stand is not available until after line time.

The situation is similar for the Festival, only heightened by the frequency of the screenings throughout the day and night. My schedule Wednesday, for example shows Frozen at 3:30, out at 5:10, I Served the King of England at 6:00, out at 8:00. That’s five and a half hours, counting the line time. It’s possible to see another film at 9pm, and some folks will. Continue reading