Son Eric posted a recipe for Beet Borscht on our family blog recently. He and his wife, Alison, have made it many times, and as the accomplished cooks they are, often freelance with both ingredients and methods—hey, you can’t screw up a soup if you’re using good ingredients. Cooking it for the first time, I went strictly by the directions, which included the use of a food mill, which is messy and cumbersome. We had it for dinner Sunday evening, and I gotta say, it was really good.
Monthly Archives: February 2006
Sautéed Beans and Greens

(Cranberry) Beans and Greens with Cod
A one-pound bag of Rancho Gordo Vallarta beans has been lying in my rice-and-beans drawer for a good while. Rancho Gordo, of Napa, California grows “New World Specialty Food featuring glorious old-fashion vegetables.” That’s what they say of themselves. I know them for their stall at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, which features heirloom beans with intriguing names such as; Runner Cannellini, Anasazi, Ojo de Cabra (eye of the goat), Yellow Indian Woman and Eye of the Tiger; among their 28 varieties. Vallarta is a small bean, a rich mahogany color, about the size of a navy bean. When I bought them, the Rancho Gordo folks said I could cook them like a navy bean.

Sauteed Beans and Greens
The Farmers Market is in a winter mode; root vegetables, citrus, beans and greens. I saw some fantastic mustard greens at the Mariquita Farm stand, and knowing I had a stash of beans, snapped them up. I love beans and greens as a comfort food side dish to have on hand. They are good with any kind of pork—maybe especially ham—but I like them best with fish. I got turned on to that idea in the 90’s with the recipe, Cod with Radicchio, White Beans, and Lemon Vinaigrette from Danny Meyer and Michael Romano’s Union Square Café Cookbook. (That is one of my Top Five cookbooks. We had dinner at the Union Square Café in New York in ‘02, and I dragged along my tattered, food-stained copy to ask for the authors to sign it. They weren’t there on that Sunday evening, but the sous chef, Ted Habber, was good enough to sign it for me.) Who knew you could combine fish (protein), beans (starch) and radicchio (vegetable) in one glorious dish?
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PIZZA! again


At the risk of belaboring the PIZZA! thing, I finally got around to making a great pizza for Sunday breakfast and taking pictures.

In the first picture you see a Vicolo cornmeal pizza crust on my pizza peel with a little olive oil applied, a cheese grater, my Early Girl tomato sauce, some Spanish olives, Mike’s cheese curd, a leftover red onion and smoked mozzarella.
Then it’s fully topped, then baked.
That was so good I ate way more than my normal 1/3, and then Carol polished it off.
Some Dim Sum
Chinese dumplings (part of dim sum meals) are easy! If I sound a bit like the Frugal Gourmet by loudly announcing this, it may be because Jeff Smith has gone a long way to proving this to me. And I’m not just talking about buying wonton or gyoza wrappers at the store and filling them with a ground pork mixture, I’m also referring to the act of making the dumpling wrapper dough, which is no more complicated than making fresh pasta — maybe even easier (because you don’t have to cut it to ribbons). It’s certainly easier than making gnocchi because you don’t have to boil potatoes ahead of time.
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Hot and Sour Soup
Cooks Illustrated just published (Jan-Feb 2006, issue #78) an article by Rebecca Hays breaking down “Hot and Sour Soup at Home” as only they can do. They also claim to have turned it into “a 20-minute dish.”
I recently had a bit of surplus pork loin on-hand, and a pot of fresh chicken broth, so I went ahead and made a pot, something I hadn’t done in probably twenty years. The last time I made this dish I used a recipe either from The Chinese Cookbook by Craig Claiborne and Virginia Lee or The Frugal Gourmet Cooks Three Ancient Cuisines: Chinese, Greece, Rome by Jeff Smith. Since both books are so old, I’ve reproduced those recipes below.
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Brunswick Stew 3
Based on Bill Neal’s Southern Cooking
This is the third version of Brunswick Stew served at my Super Bowl Party. It is unique in that it includes rabbit, carrots, celery and cabbage, as well as the “usual ingredients.”
Finding a rabbit was a bit of an adventure. Continue reading
Polly Dutton Meatballs
My first post as an Ensign in the Navy was as Communications Officer aboard the USS Tulare AKA112, stationed in San Diego. For a guy who had never been out of Ohio until he was 19, this was a paradise! The Tulare, named for Tulare County in California where the redwoods grow, was an Attack Cargo Ship (AKA), basically a merchant cargo ship configured for Navy use. We carried the boats used in amphibious landings. We’d hoist the boats out of the cargo hold and drop them gently (usually) into the ocean, where Marines from the Attack Personnel Ships (APA) would swarm aboard.

So we were a big ship with few people aboard. Luxurious. As an Ensign, I was assigned a stateroom shared by only one other Officer! This may be the only type of ship in the Navy with that luxury of space.
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Pork… Left… Over
Pork… Left… Over, or
Fabulous Pork and Vegetable Saute
The pork wasn’t that great to begin with. It was a so-called Country Rib, which is the first two ribs from the top of the loin. Carol almost always rubs and roasts that, and there are always leftovers. It tastes more like a pork roast than a tenderloin or pork chop, and it’s fatty enough to be nice and moist and juicy. Yum. But this one seemed like a different cut, with a different texture, more dry and chewy. It was okay, but not Yum.
It’s Saturday evening, not much goin’ on, “What’s for dinner?”
“I want to make this lettuce wedge with Roquefort dressing I saw on TV,” Carol said, “and there’s that leftover pork, but I don’t know what to do with it.”
“I’ll do something with it,” I said, “give me 20 minutes notice before you want to eat.”
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Black Coffee

“JERUSALEM ! ! !” cried the taxi driver, as we topped a long hill and first glimpsed the white buildings of the ancient city, before plunging into another deep valley.
I had read O Jerusalem, a book by Larry Collins and Dominique LaPierre, dramatically describing the events, places and people of the 1948 War of Independence, and I was thinking of the battles of the Latrun Heights and Bab el Wad as we sped through these sites, along the modern highway from Ben Gurion Airport. But the hills are steeper and the Wadis deeper than I had imagined, or could have imagined; an Ohio boy living in Boston.
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Mom's Chop Suey
My mom made this for us as kids in Ohio, and it usually made an appearance at church suppers and whatnot. I loved it!
Spam, as the meat of choice, was just right. Its saltiness and soft texture blends well with the salty over-processed texture of the canned vegetables, and is set off by the crunchiness of the canned noodles.
Who knew this wasn’t the real deal? There were no Chinese restaurants in Columbus, Ohio in the ‘50’s, or if there were, we didn’t go there.
Mom didn’t settle for just the can of chop suey, she made her own additions of the extra vegetables, but you needed the can of chop suey to get that dark brown sauce that was so good. This was a staple in our house.
Years pass and we’re living in Newton with kids of our own, Julia Child on the TV, and a new Vulcan restaurant range with six burners. So I go about recreating my mom’s chop suey using fresh bean sprouts, fresh vegetables and even fried, fresh Chinese noodles. And I made my own sauce, no cans for me (okay, water chestnuts and bamboo shoots are still canned). I stuck to the Spam, because after all, that’s “American.”
Folks, it ain’t the same.
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